Queens Tribune

Northern Blvd., Great Neck
PHONE: (516) 829-0005
WEB: www.vespany.com
CUISINE: Italian
HOURS: L&D Noon to close, Mon.-Fri.; Dinner 4 p.m. to close Sat. & Sun.
PARKING: Lot
CATERING: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: All Major

On a Saturday night, there are some restaurants that are friendly, some that are busy, some where you can get a great meal and some that are romantic hideaways. Vespa is all of the above.

We showed up to this small place hidden just on the other side of the county line on Northern Boulevard with a reservation for two at 7 p.m., and there was a lone table waiting for us. Though the dimly lit restaurant was busy, and it may have taken a minute or two longer than expected to get our drink order in, the night was superb.

To start, a simple quarter loaf of rustic bread was put before us, blending very well with the rosemary infused olive oil placed at the table. As we perused the menu, which changes at least seasonally, if not on a nightly basis, the decisions were tough. Start with a soup? Get an appetizer? How about a salad? We settled on a pair of appetizers – the Carciofini, which is a sauté of fresh artichoke hearts, and the Ripieni, which is a yellow pepper stuffed with olives, capers, mozzarella and bread.

The appetizers were wonderful. There were just enough of the artichoke hearts, and the stuffed pepper was absolutely glorious, the highlight of the evening – and that’s saying a lot, considering the entrees.

My wife chose the Mignotta, which was a filet mignon flamed in cognac and asparagus, served with fresh vegetables and mashed potatoes. I chose the Fettuccine Rapa, which was fettuccine with garlic, oil and crumbled sweet sausage served under a heaping mound of sautéed broccoli rabe.

Despite the wonderful selections, the choices had been tough, though. Other highlights of the menu included Ravioli Portofino, which was a pesto-filled ravioli served in a butter and sage sauce; Agnello, lamb chops roasted in red wine and peppercorns; and Osso Buco, Vespa’s signature dish, which is a veal shank braised and served on a bed or risotto Milanese.

Coffee and dessert are exactly what you would expect from such a fine restaurant, and do remember that this isn’t your typical American place – they don’t want to rush you, and they want you to take your time enjoying your meal, savoring it, and taking a breather between courses, which at Vespa, is easy to do. Enjoy!