Queens Tribune

247-63 Jericho Tpke., Bellerose
(718) 343-2185
Cuisine: Italian
Hours: 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fri.; noon to 11 p.m. Sat.; noon to 10 p.m. Sun.
Delivery: Yes
Catering: Yes
Parking: Street

Stepping into Trattoria Lucia on a Friday night during the holiday season feels like being welcomed into the beautifully decorated home of a loving family member. You are made to feel comfortable, enjoy the pleasant company and are fed delicious treats until you can hardly stand up from the table.

We were greeted at the door by Karen, the smiling owner, who was dressed in the same casual attire as her wait staff. She led us past an accordion player who helps set the mood on Friday evenings to a nice table by the kitchen. Our drinks order was taken and we began the difficult task of perusing the menu.

If any negative comment can be made about the experience at Lucia, it is that you may need some extra time to pick your meal. Sure, they have traditional chicken, veal, seafood and beef dishes, but the range of creations is extreme, making ordering a challenge.

You could try the Linguini alla Joseph, which is served with calamari and scungilli in a fra Diavolo sauce for $12.95, or if you’re looking for something meatier try the Orrechiette Abruzzesse, which is served with sausage and broccoli rabe in garlic and olive oil for $11.95.

I chose the Chicken Scarpariello, which is served off the bone with sausage, mushrooms, cherry peppers, garlic and olive oil. My guest ordered from the exquisite specials menu, and wound up with balls of chicken and veal stuffed with spinach and cheese in a cream sauce.

Prior to the main dishes arriving we enjoyed appetizers. My guest had a cup of the pasta fagioli, which was filled with beans and delicate sauce. I ordered from the specials list and selected shrimp wrapped in bacon and served with a Cajun sauce. Both were just the right size to prepare us for the meal to come.

The main courses were served in enormous portions, and we were given the time to enjoy the meal. Though the restaurant was packed to the rafters, we never felt rushed, and the mood of our fellow diners was nothing but cheerful throughout the evening.

Okay, so maybe it’s not quite like being at a relative’s house – it may be a bit better.

Besides how many relatives serve chocolate chip cheesecake or pumpkin sorbet served in a miniature pumpkin?
Go once and you will be transformed into one of the regulars who has to go again and again. Enjoy.