Queens Tribune

103-22 Metropolitan Ave., Forest Hills
(718) 575-8999
CUISINE: Italian
HOURS: Noon to 11 p.m. Tue-Sun; closed Mon.
PARKING: Valet on Friday & Saturday

Forest Hills is a patch of Gotham that effortlessly combines the big-city, trendy feel of Manhattan with the warm, welcoming touch you can only uncover in Queens.

And perhaps no place better exemplifies this uncanny confluence of style and affability than Sarabella Bistro & Grille, a wondrous Italian kitchen on Metropolitan Avenue in the heart of the Hills.

“Every night is a Sarabella night!” exclaims owner Danny Tollenne.

This is quite an understatement.

Listen to this lineup: Tuesday is Karaoke Night; Wednesday is Lobster Night, where you can enjoy 1-1/2 lb. lobster with three pastas and a glass of wine ($28.95); Thursday is Psychic Night, a fun lead-in to the weekend that offers dinner and a 15-minute individual reading ($40 per person); Friday night brings out Ol’ Blue Eyes with the Sounds of Sinatra; and you can spend a lazy Sunday afternoon listening to live jazz during the Champagne Brunch that offers a complimentary Mimosa or Bloody Mary.

After ambling in from Metropolitan on a quiet, brisk Tuesday evening we were greeted with a smile by Vicky who anchors the bar. While walking to our seats I was immediately struck by the beautiful bistro paintings and lively decorations that adorn the walls and help define the eatery’s unique atmosphere. Towering teddy bears rest atop wine racks that hug the two pillars in the roomy dining area – a fun addition that provides the 6-year-old Sarabella with a likable eccentricity.

And Franco, our amiable server, definitely adds that close-knit Queens neighborhood hospitality to the experience. Playfully joking with nearly every table, many of which were obvious regulars, he is attentive and informative without being overbearing, a quality lost on many today in the food-service industry.

After settling in we were immediately met with crisp bruschette and a basket full of various kinds of breads and breadsticks. The menu announced the new addition of Sally Dee’s Steak and Chop House to Sarabella. Named for Sarabella’s resident DJ and entertainer, Sally Dee, and boasting porterhouse, filet mignon, veal and lamb chop, among other meats, it’s an intimate section nestled in the far left corner of the dining area featuring Yankees’ memorabilia hung proudly on the walls.

Specials at Sarabella run the gamut, from grilled Portobello mushrooms to lobster risotto, black linguini with shrimp to papardelle with mushroom sauce, to chicken medallions, Chilean sea bass, and stuffed salmon. Sarabella’s also provides a catering hall for all parties and occasions on the lower level

For our entrée, we dove right into the inviting chicken Parmigiana and broiled filet of sole. The portions are perfect, not at all daunting but definitely filling. While Sarabella’s cuisine is non-regional Italian, the sweet sauce was reminiscent of my Sicilian grandmother’s pride and joy. My guest soaked in the steamy sole as Danny walked over two glasses of sparkling pinot grigio and the delicious stuffed artichoke. I highly recommend accompanying your main course with this appetizer as it’s the perfect veggie compliment to a hearty Italian meal.

We topped it all off with Sarabella’s homemade dessert. Chocolate mousse, cheesecake, and cappuccinos dotted the “I” of this invigorating dining experience. The cheesecake could easily rival Junior’s in Brooklyn or that of the most upscale downtown café.

With fair prices — a dinner for two with drinks and dessert probably won’t exceed $80 — diverse entertainment and specials, gracious, accommodating staff, and a spirited atmosphere, Sarabella is a tremendous find in Forest Hills.