Great Food On The Corner
Connolly’s Corner
71-15 Grand Ave., Maspeth
Phone: (718) 565-7383
Website: connollyscorner.com
Cuisine: Irish-American
Hours: Lunch and Dinner, 7 Days
Credit Cards: Yes
Parking: Lot under construction

This is not your average Irish bar. It is, indeed, so much more.

Sure, you can get your slow-poured Guinness, there’s darts a-plenty and satellite broadcasts of every imaginable football game (that’s soccer to the Americans) from across the globe.

But as I said, this place is so much more than a bar.

Arriving this past Saturday night, we passed through the front portion of the bar to enter the separate dining room, where we were greeted by general manager Mary Cawley. She directed the four of us to a comfortable booth, and introduced Samantha, our charming and knowledgeable server for the evening.

Now, I must admit, I’ve been to this place a handful of times, mostly for lunch. It’s a neighborhood joint of mine, and one that my family and I love to show off to visitors to this often sleepy dining region.

On Saturday night, we went full out, as our friend Sarah was visiting from Williamsburg (Virginia, not that other borough). We started with a few shared appetizers. From the menu we ordered the Garlic Mushrooms, which are deep fried and served with a garlic mayo; Fried Calamari, which is a massive portion for sharing, crisp and light, served with spicy marinara and chipotle sauces; and a special for the night – NY Jets Buffalo-style Shrimp.

The shrimp showed off the chef’s ability to cook with whimsy, taking an iconic piece of bar food and elevating it to a new height. Served hanging over the edge of a martini glass, the exterior texture and flavor was spot-on Buffalo wing, but the shrimp was cooked tender with a snap and served with a bleu cheese-based dipping sauce. It’s great to see a classic reinvented and presented so well.

Moving on to our main dishes, we discovered more of the chef’s blend of classic concepts mixed with strokes of creative brilliance. Sarah, wisely knowing that the appetizers would be quite filling, opted for the Left Coast Salad, a blend of greens, Granny Smith apples, raisins, candied pecans, sun-dried cranberries and goat cheese served with a roast shallot vinaigrette.

Emma, my 10-year-old, stepped up to an adult version of pasta with the Penne with Chicken, Sausage and Mozzarella, served with enormous chunks of garlic bread. She marveled at how much fresh mozzarella was in the dish, which was served with layers of cheese like a good lasagna.

My wife Christine was enticed by the Bailey’s Salmon, which is a classic pan-seared fillet served with a Roasted Garlic and Bailey’s Irish Cream sauce, accompanied by fresh sautéed veggies and a choice of potatoes – she went with mashed. The sauce was as rich and decadent as the fish was light and delicate. The combination served to enhance without overpowering, and worked with grace and flavor.

For me, I challenged the restaurant’s claim that they serve the best ribs in Queens, ordering the Connolly’s Corner Signature BBQ Ribs, served with a generous side of twice-cooked fries. The ribs are fall-off-the-bone tender, smoky, and slathered with a tangy sauce that sticks to your fingers and leaves you licking your lips.

The best in Queens? Maybe. I’ve been to a lot of rib joints, and these can run right alongside the borough’s other top dogs.

Closing with dessert, we were thrilled with the choices. From the Connolly’s Corner House Dessert, vanilla bean ice cream sandwiched between pieces of puff pastry and drizzled with raspberry sauce and crème anglaise, to the Ultimate Brownie, the Bailey’s Cheesecake and the Warm Soda Bread Pudding topped with a caramel sauce, each was fresh-made and as wonderful to taste as they were to see plated.

With a slew of weekday and weekend specials, the Irish Sunday brunch, the party room and the enclosed outdoor piazza, Connolly’s Corner answers every wish for food, fun and a great time for all who enter. See you there.

—Brian M. Rafferty