A Hidden, Juicy Gem
Puerta Madero Steakhouse
158-15 Horace Harding Expy., Fresh Meadows
(718) 661-4262
Cuisine: Argentine & Greek
Hours: Tue-Sun noon-11 p.m.
Credit Cards: All Major
Reservations: Accepted
Parking: Street
Don’t be fooled by the exterior. Though it is easily the nicest shop on the strip, Puerta Madero Steakhouse is by no means impressive from the outside. Venture in. I promise, you won’t be disappointed.
With small tables layered with maroon and white tablecloths, and funky, modern blue lighting lining the walls, the overall effect is surprisingly elegant. Don’t be surprised if you forget where you are.
After being quickly seated by the friendly and knowledgeable waitstaff, my guest and I perused the menu, an eclectic mix of Italian and Argentinean dishes. Always up for an adventure, on the advice of our server we chose several traditional Argentinean dishes.
As we waited for our food, we enjoyed a basket of warm, crusty Italian bread with Encortido, an Argentinean appetizer that consists of cannellini bean, scallions and garlic in olive oil.
At first bite the Encortido is surprisingly sweet, followed by a hint of onion. You’ll discover what happened to the garlic after you swallow. A surprisingly strong aftertaste awaits you, which is fine with this garlic lover.
While doing some serious damage to the breadbasket, the offer of Sangria was happily accepted, and we chose the white. A mix of white wine, peach, pineapple, brandy and 7-Up with chunks of apple and orange; the mellow flavor belies the alcohol. On your next trip, make sure to order a pitcher, but don’t forget the designated driver. It’s too good to sip.
To our delight, the first course came quickly – an exotic looking appetizer known as Matambre: sliced veal served cold, stuffed with boiled eggs, spinach and peppers in a light garlic sauce, topped by a Russian salad. This was the only way anyone has ever gotten me to eat, and enjoy, peas and celery. We both went back for seconds.
The second dish, Clams Polipo, finds clams cooked in tomato sauce, with garlic, oregano and fresh herbs. Not normally a clam lover, I nonetheless enjoyed these.
A stinging aftertaste of something I could not identify was quickly squelched by a sip of Sangria, yet another plus in its column. Oh Sangria, how I love thee.
Our first main course was the Canneloni, a crepe stuffed with spinach, ricotta and mushrooms in a creamy tomato sauce. Give the dish time to grow on you. I was unimpressed after the first nibble, and my guest did not think he would finish it, only to devour it after the third bite.
It’s a hearty meal disguised in a delicate exterior, whose highlight, the tomato sauce, begs to be sopped up with your extra bread. After you lick your plate clean, don’t be surprised if the chef cheers. If anyone has their recipe, please, let me know.
It’s a hearty meal disguised in a delicate exterior, whose highlight, the tomato sauce, begs to be sopped up with your extra bread. After you lick your plate clean, don’t be surprised if the chef cheers. If anyone has their recipe, please, let me know.
Planning a party? I wish I were, because the private room can accommodate 70-80 people, and cost is negotiable.
With prices that range from $8.95 for an appetizer to $39.90 for the special mixed grill of ribs, steak, sweetbread and sausage, Puerto Madero is one of those neighborhood restaurants that a couple might refer to as “our place.”
Make it yours.