New Place, Same Great Taste
Danny’s Szechuan Garden
156-40B Cross Bay Boulevard Howard Beach, NY
(718) 738-6500
HOURS: Monday to Thursday 11:15 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday 11:15 a.m. to 11 p.m.;
Saturday 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.
CREDIT CARDS: Yes, all major
Danny’s Szechuan Garden has been a Howard Beach staple for three decades, so much so that the father of my dining companion, Craig J. Heed, could fondly recall visiting the Chinese restaurant on Cross Bay Boulevard long before his son emerged in this world. Recently, Danny moved to a new location on 156th Avenue and Cross Bay Boulevard, leaving his legendary 164th Avenue location. Don’t panic, Danny brought the same great food with him when he went on the move.
As the Howard Beach faithful know, Danny doesn’t only serve up Chinese food. A Japanese smokeless hibachi grill ensures all of your favorite Japanese choices are ready for consumption. I, hungry as always, was prepared to be my gluttonous American self and Danny graciously obliged.
We led off with some luscious appetizers, shrimp dumplings and barbecued spare ribs. Danny bestowed his brilliant spinach and minced chicken soup for us, and we heartily slurped it all up. Finding good soup in New York City can be a Sysphean task: Danny shoves that rock right up the hill.
Lake Tung Ting shrimp, General Tso’s chicken, beef with shrimp and sautéed string beans made up our filling main course. New lunch specials include shredded pork with garlic sauce and baby shrimp with garlic sauce, all cooked to great lengths to make you beg for more. Somewhere, Craig’s father was smiling about the return of his prodigal son to Danny’s Szechuan, where generations of Heeds learned about fine Asian dining.
Danny’s finisher was the fried rice in pineapple, the exotic sort of dish you only dream of eating until it’s in front of you. I took some home because great food should come home with you.
-Ross Barkan