Boro’s Burger Crown
Donovan’s Pub
54-24 Roosevelt Ave., Woodside
(718) 429-9339
Cuisine: Irish Pub – Burgers
Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight, 7 days
Credit Cards: Cash only
Parking: Street
It was an unusually warm Monday night for this early in March, and having just come back from Manhattan at an event, we were looking for some place to go that was easy to get to and where we knew we’d have a good time.
Our first choice was obvious – Donovan’s.
Arriving just after 7 p.m., we got a parking spot right in front and headed inside this dimly lit haven for local Irish rogues and those seeking out the finest burger in Queens.
Passing through the bar, as the Irish eyes smiled upon us, we headed down a couple of steps to the dining room and were handed the simple menus. Irish favorites – from Shepherd’s Pie to a house special flounder stuffed with crab meat – dotted the menu. But really, mostly we were there for the burgers.
In her thick brogue, our server took our drink order and hurried off to place her order at the bar. By the time she returned, we were set – two burgers, an order of onion rings to share and a fish and chips platter.
Yeah, we could have had the soup or ordered off the short menu of specials, but we have come to love Donovan’s, consistently rated as the best burger in the borough, for its hot off the griddle meaty madness. We were not disappointed.
The burgers were thick, weighty, juicy and delicious. They have that perfect balance with the tenderness of the beef, the crisp snap of the seared exterior and the juiciness that, by the time you’re done, has turned your napkin translucent.
The fish was light and buttery, its crust simultaneously tender and crisp, served with lemon and just the right amount of tartar sauce – malt vinegar is available if you ask.
Both the burger and the fish were served with thick, hand-cut fries that are nearly wedges, well browned and crisp on the outside, soft and steamy in the middle.
Following our dinner, we sat over coffee and were never rushed. People came and went, all greeted by the hostess, all having a great time.
It’s a simple meal, a friendly place and great spot to enjoy a quick bite – or to linger and enjoy the evening. And for that Best Burger title? The crown still resides in Woodside.
—Brian M. Rafferty