Queens Tribune

55-26 69th St., Maspeth
(718) 446-5910
Cuisine: Italian/Pizzeria
Parking: Street
Hours: Open every day except Christmas, New Years, and Thanksgiving
Delivery: No
Take Out: Absolutely

Most corner pizzerias now have grabbed on to the idea of specialty slices – lasagna, Grandma, rigatoni and more. But Rosa’s Pizza on 69th Street in Maspeth is the pioneer. It has been making one spectacular pie after another for decades – and for at least the last 15 years that I’ve been going there.

I grew up on the light crust of Pizza Boy in Jackson Heights and the heavier dough of Ray’s (yes, the “original” original) on 11th Street and St. Mark’s Pizza on Third Avenue. I remember Goldberg’s deep dish on 53rd Street and Second Avenue – before anybody in New York heard of a Deep Dish.

But Rosa’s is the one that won my heart –something I will always thank my wife for. She had the good luck of growing up down the street, and her mother still picks up dinner from there a few times a week.

The people are friendly. They know most of the regulars by name, and those who come in for the first time are greeted by a smile and the inevitable “Who’s Next?”

If you’re into a plain pie, get it fresh out of the oven and ready to go for a mere $12.

But why be boring? The list of toppings at Rosa’s is seemingly endless, and the combinations are spectacular. My first trek down the path of pizza enlightenment came from a lasagna slice – with ricotta, crumbled beef, a touch of onion & garlic and tomato sauce, one is a lunch. But you can never have just a single slice.

Feeling like eating light? Try the salad slice. Want more veggies? The Eggplant Parmesan pizza is perfect. More protein? Try a variety of chicken pies – including the Chicken Caesar Salad pie.

But enough about pizza already. That is – the round ones. Think a wet, drippy rectangle of Italian goodness. The Sicilian pie is baked first with just cheese and spices. Then, after getting a crust of cheese and a good toasting, it goes back in with more cheese followed by a top layer of tomato sauce and a sprinkling of Parmesan. The effect is odd to the eye but such a delight to the senses.

There are other Sicilian varieties – Grandma (with fresh basil, garlic and chunky tomatoes) and sfincione (covered in light and tender cooked onion and breadcrumbs), and you can get any pie done any way.

Oh – and if you’re looking to sit down and have a regular dinner, you can do that, too. With standard dishes ranging from Baked Ziti (with or without ricotta) to Eggplant Rollatini and Penne alla Vodka, the portions are enormous and the servers bring them to tables in the enormous addition (built several years ago, now). Enjoy!