Queens Tribune

Cheesesteak Factory
39-23 Bell Blvd., Bayside
(718) 767-1111
Hours: Sun-Wed 11am to 11pm; Thu 11am-midnight; Fri & Sat 11am-4am.
Parking: Street
Credit Cards: Yes

For the Cheesesteak Factory, the name is a blessing and a curse – but has mostly been the latter for owner Todd November who purchased and revamped the Bell Boulevard hotspot back in February.

With a distinctly similar name to the national brand Cheesecake Factory, and with a reputation that turned off the local community, November has been fighting an uphill battle to win over the neighborhood and show people that his place is new and different.

The truth is that it both is new and different, but it also is not. The food is no longer pre-cooked, with dried steak and uncooked onions on a roll calling itself Cheesesteak; each order is cooked fresh, which is what makes it old and the same – if you’re from the streets of Philadelphia.

November has brought authenticity and flavor to the Cheesesteak Factory. The truest test of a good Cheesesteak is the onions and the bread; November’s onions are crispy, caramelized and filled with the flavor of the meat they cook with. The bread is tender, with a snap crust and is the perfect medium for absorbing the juices of the fresh-cooked meat and veggies.

In short, the place has got the Cheesesteak sandwich nailed. Don’t bother with the drive to Philly – get your sandwich here; it is as authentic as they come.

Despite the name, the Cheesesteak Factory is so much more about the signature sandwich. A wide range of burgers, wraps, salads, side dishes, wings, barbecue and other goodies dot the menu. On our trip there Sunday night, we tried our best to sample everything.

We opened our meal with Fiesta Fries, which are November’s fries, cooked in a two-day process, covered with his homemade chili, nacho cheese, bacon and jalapenos. The chili has a kick – as does a lot of the food at the place – but it doesn’t overwhelm with fire. The spiciness dances on your palate without overwhelming.

The Pulled Pork Sliders come from meat coated in a spice rub and slow roasted. They are served on small brioche buns with a drizzle of hot sauce and a purple cabbage slaw. The combination is somewhat a mix between a Carolina and Memphis style, sweet, spicy, crisp and delicious.

The burgers, which we tried in slider form, are made with a special blend of meats that November grinds 15 pounds at a time, testing each batch on the grill himself before putting it out for his customers. They are juicy, served with a bit of red onion, mayo and American cheese, though they can be stacked however you like them.

For as many ways as you can imagine your burger, the chicken wing options are just as varied. We tried two of the dozens of styles – honey barbecue and sweet chili coatings. The meat was tender, the skin supple and flavors intense.

And flavor is where November really shows his stuff. From the sauces to the combinations on his wraps, the blends of sweet, salty, spicy, soothing, tangy and tempestuous come together in every dish. The chicken wrap was as good the next day cold as it was hot.

But getting back to the signature dish – the Cheesesteak – November has instituted his own challenge – The Bayside Grand Slam, served on a 24-inch baguette loaf. It includes meat, cheeses, onions, hot and sweet peppers and about a pound and a half of fries; all totaled about five pounds of food fitting snug into the bread. If you eat it in 30 minutes or less, it’s free. Some have tried, most have failed, but the challenge beckons.

Located on Bell Boulevard a block away from the LIRR, the Cheesesteak Factory, which will soon change its name to Todd’s New York BBQ And Roadhouse and add more barbecue options to its menu in the coming months, is great place to stop after a long night, the perfect spot to pick up a sandwich on the way to the game or just a fun place to hang out during football season and enjoy the games on their giant TVs.