Queens Tribune

80-00 Cooper Ave, Glendale
The Shops At Atlas Park
(718) 326-2201
HOURS: Noon to 9 p.m. Sun. – Thurs.; Noon to Midnight Fri. & Sat.
CUISINE: German
TAKEOUT: Yes
DELIVERY: No

Manor Oktoberfest is not a very big place. It takes up a corner next to the movie theater at The Shops At Atlas Park, and has some outdoor seating, but from the look of it the place appears to be a small German bar.

Don’t be fooled – it is a great German restaurant in hiding. All you have to do is look at the menu to know that you’re in for a great meal when you stop in.

On the appetizer menu, Teutonic favorites like Smoked Black Forest Bacon and Herring In Cream are offset by Polish Potato Pancakes and Pierogies and American favorites like Onion Rings and Mozzarella Sticks.

Want a small (hah!) dinner? Try the 1/3-pound bratwurst served on a hoagie roll will Sauerkraut and Queens’ best (and oldest) mustard – Bauer’s, made in Ridgewood. Not big enough? There is the half-pound burger served just how you like it. Heck, on a recent visit one of the customers got it with lettuce, tomato, cheese and liverwurst.

Owner Mark Gallagher said he prefers his liverwurst straight – no bread to cut the tender flavor – but he’s willing to accommodate the customer.

If Mark’s name sounds familiar, it should. He’s the man who has run Manor Deli in Woodhaven for the last eight years. Manor Oktoberfest has been open for six months at Atlas Park, and the reputation is growing.

“We’re starting to get a lot of regular customers,” he said.

He said many come in for the Spaten beer and the German music, but most are there for the authentic treats, like the Sauerbraten Pork Loin, Pastrami and Brisket. All the sandwiches and burgers are served on a wooden carving board, adding to the flavor of the place – it just feels friendly, like you’ve walked into your German friend’s kitchen.

The side dishes are also authentic. The spaetzle is imported from Germany, the Potato Salad is from Manor Deli and the sauerkraut’s caraway and lay leaf flavors enhance the cabbage – which doesn’t taste like it has lost its flavor one bit.

Beside the dinners, Oktoberfest also has a great lunch deal with your choice of a variety of sandwiches, a drink and fries or potato salad for what may be the best lunch price in the mall.

Clearly, the food lives up to the tradition set by Manor Deli while also adding the feel of an authentic German brauhaus – though at a much smaller scale. Bring an appetite and enjoy!