Queens Tribune

161-50 Cross Bay Blvd.
(718) 323-8400
CUISINE: American
HOURS: Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri & Sat. 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m.; Sun. 2-10 p.m.
PARKING: Lot; valet available
CREDIT CARDS: Major

It’s easy to find chain restaurants such as Applebee’s or T.G.I. Friday’s in Queens. You can stumble upon any one of these food factories on nearly every major thoroughfare and shopping district.

This certainly is not the case with a quality steakhouse. Think of a carefully prepared prime rib, potatoes and a pint with all the accoutrements and most people would recite the usual suspects – Peter Luger, Gallagher’s, Smith & Wollensky – all of which reside in Brooklyn or Manhattan.

You can now add Howard Beach’s Mahogany Steakhouse to that list of legendary eateries.

Owned and operated by the Lo Prinzi family, Mahogany is a warm, stately steak, seafood and chops shop located on Cross Bay Boulevard at 162nd Avenue in the heart of south Queens. Their claim as “one of New York City’s finest steakhouses” sounds like blind boasting, but after a hearty meal, you’d be inclined to side with that statement.

My guest and I arrived for a late dinner and Vince Lo Prinzi accommodated us at a table near the windows. Had this been a summer’s evening we would undoubtedly have opted for a spot at the four-table dining area facing the breezy boulevard.

Our waiter, Rolando, dressed in traditional server’s garb, provided Mahogany’s extensive wine list and spirits menu. After ordering an Amstel Light and a bottle of Pellegrino, we sampled the delicious mixed breads that had arrived when we were seated.

It was lobster bisque soup and a large, thick Maryland crab cake for appetizers. My guest savored the steamy bisque as I dipped the perfectly-breaded patty into a tangy, sweet sauce. It was crispy and neat, not flaky and sloppy, filled with scrumptious seasoned crab meat. Highly recommended.

The courteous and attentive Rolando rolled out our entrees – medium-cooked surf and turf for my guest; steakhouse cut filet mignon prepared medium-rare for yours truly – shortly after we finished our appetizers.

The filet was cooked just right, and after adding Mahogany’s own steak sauce it went from delectable to spectacular. The side of hash brown potatoes I ordered to accompany the entrée completed the meal. I had never seen hash browns prepared in such a way. It featured sliced, seasoned golden brown pieces of potato and thin strips of bacon; a distinctive side order that could’ve been a meal in and of itself.

Mahogany’s dinner menu advertises their “sinful” desserts. My guest and I decided to go with the traditional brownie which was served warm on a square plate with a scoop of vanilla ice cream surrounded by whipped cream and fresh strawberry halves. This melt-in-your-mouth kicker was the crowning end to a delightful meal.

Food and service fit for a king comes at an expected ransom in New York City, and this applies to Mahogany. But when you consider the generous portions, impeccable dishes and quality attention you will receive, it is well worth it.

If you’ve been searching for the right steakhouse in Queens, look no further than Mahogany. From the bread basket to the brownies, the best is in your own backyard.