Queens Tribune

83-27 Roosevelt Ave., Jackson Heights
(718) 478-6528
CUISINE: Colombian
HOURS: Daily 9 a.m.-midnight
CREDIT CARDS: All major
PARKING: Street

In the midst of an ever-changing, fast-paced neighborhood, La Pequeña Colombia is a Jackson Heights institution that offers it guests some respite from the hustle and bustle of its center of activity, Roosevelt Avenue.

Living up to its title, for 22 years La Pequeña Colombia has been offering its clientele a place to sit back, eat well, and for many of them, enjoy a little piece of home.

The first thing I noticed upon entering was the cozy, inviting environment this restaurant fosters. As I was escorted to a table of my choice, all-wood décor and furniture, highlighted all around by dim lights and large pictures of different Colombia locales, stood out. I also noticed the cleanliness of the establishment, which isn’t always a given in this neighborhood. In the background, I could hear the live music (every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday) being offered, and immediately I knew I was in for a dining experience rather than just a meal.

Ambience aside, the service was great. The waitress was fast with her greeting and she brought with her fresh bread, limes (a staple in Colombian cuisine) and some homemade sauces – ahi, a jalapeno-based sauce which was to offer the meal some kick, and chimichurri, a cilantro-based sauce which she assured us was good on everything.

Although this restaurant offers a variety of wines (mostly Chilean and Argentinean), I decided to begin my meal with a glass of sangria ($4). I knew I was off to a good start when I tasted it. It was fruity and naturally sweetened by the mixture of apples, oranges and strawberry pulp, but it also retained some dryness of the wine used to make it.

The meal was quickly underway with some Calamares Fritos ($13). Although I was keen on ordering something other than calamari, it was strongly recommended. The portion was huge, enough for two or three, and the taste was unique. The calamari had been marinated well (which is probably why it wasn’t chewy or rubbery) and the seasoned flour used to coat it really made for a nice, light breading that wasn’t at all greasy. I should note that all of the restaurant’s fried dishes are prepared in soybean oil.

Churrasco ($19.50), La Pequeña Colombia’s staple entrée, is an immensely popular dish. It consists of grilled prime sirloin steak served with rice beans and French fries. But I decided to order mini Entrana (skirt steak, $12.95, full portion, $19.95) instead. Great decision. This juicy, extremely tender steak comes served with perfectly grilled plantains and beans and rice. The sangria I had previously ordered was a nice compliment to the dish, and the cilantro-based chimichurri sauce really did heighten the flavor profile of this dish. While eating, Silvio, the harp player and his accompanist on guitar treated my date and me to a serenade of Latin music.

The best part of this dining experience (other than the food) for me was the service. At most restaurants, my interaction is limited to my waiter or waitress alone. At La Pequeña Colombia, the team effort is so apparent, that you feel as though everyone is waiting you on.

La Pequeña Colombia’s appeal is so well known that it even extends all the way to Colombia. Last year, when premiering their movie, the makers of “Maria Full of Grace,” decided on this venue for their premiere. Considering they do very little advertising and rely mostly on word of mouth, that speaks volumes about their quality.

It is no big surprise to me that in a neighborhood where businesses are constantly coming and going, why La Pequeña Colombia has managed to be around for 22 years. Having never dined in Colombia, I left believing that this is what it must feel like to do so. While the owner insists that is their loyal chefs and employees that sustain the restaurant’s consistency, I am sure that their concepts, visions and high quality of food also have something to do with it.

Go on an empty stomach, take your time, and be prepared to experience “a little Colombia.”