Queens Tribune

181-08 Union Tpke., Fresh Meadows
(718) 380-1918
CUISINE: Chinese
HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.
DELIVERY: No
TAKEOUT: Yes
PARKING: Street
CREDIT CARDS: All major

Queens has experienced a dramatic swing in Chinese food over the year, from the humble Cantonese beginnings of the 1950s to the Szechuan palaces of the 1980s, the Hunan growth of the 1990s and the modern fusion of Pan-Asian cuisine.

And through it all, “Uncle” Jimmy Eng, who greets every guest at the restaurant, has been putting out consistent flavor at King Yum in Fresh Meadows in a Cantonese/Polynesian setting. At a recent trip we were reminded of the Chinese restaurants of long ago.

From the crisp egg rolls to the saucy entrees, King Yum offers a step back in time. From the first taste you get of fried broad noodles and sides of duck sauce and mustard to dip, you know you’re in retro Chinese Heaven. The noodles are flaky, crisp and a bit greasy – but that’s what makes them so special.

After all, King Yum isn’t about low-fat – heck, you won’t find tofu on the menu or veggie General Tso’s. But you will find luxurious dishes with flavors that take you back in time.

Visiting this past Sunday, we began with a Pu-Pu Platter that came with old-style ribs, beef stick, wrapped chicken, shrimp toast and a breaded, fried shrimp. In the center of the bowl a flame burns atop a small stove, allowing you to place the meats on the fire, heating them up and bringing out all the delicious flavors.

For the record, the ribs are not doused in red sauce as modern restaurants dictate – they are grilled, however, and meaty. Have them – you’ll recognize the taste. It’s called pork. The beef stick is also incredibly marinated and seared, locking in juices as well as flavor. The shrimp toast is light, the breaded shrimp melts in your mouth and the wrapped chicken is spicy, savory and steamy, making for a great way into the meal.

We got two main dishes – a traditional Beef and Broccoli, as well as Honey Garlic Chicken. The beef seemed to have been simmering in the sauce for hours; it was tender, and the sauce rich and meaty. The broccoli was done crisp, not limp or crunchy, as are too often the extreme found in competing restaurants.

The chicken was a delight. Batter-fried pieces were glazed in a sauce that resembled honey mustard in taste, but with a kick that hits the taste buds a variety of all the right places.

Though we did not try it, the Roast Pork Egg Foo Young looked delicious, slathered in sauce and served on a bed of rice. King Yum uses egg instead of corn starch to thicken the sauce, dramatically improving the texture.

Dessert was simple with choices of ice cream and almond cookies – but that’s not what King Yum is about. It’s the classic food, the Polynesian drinks, and the old-school décor that keeps em coming back for more.

And if that’s not enough, between now and the end of the month King Yum is celebrating its 54th Anniversary with daily specials. Make sure to say “Hi” to Jimmy when you pop in. Enjoy!