Queens Tribune

37-25 74th St., Jackson Heights
(718) 651-4187
CUISINE: Indian, buffet or a la carte
HOURS: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily; lunch buffet, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.,
dinner buffet, 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.
SPECIALS: Half price buffet for children under 7
CREDIT CARDS: No
PARKING: Curbside
www.indiantajny.com

Long after the hustle and bustle of 74th Street, or Little India, quiets down for the night, there is a quiet, little door leading to Indian Taj, one of the City’s best restaurants.

During a Tuesday night visit, the entire stretch of Southeast Asian eateries, jewelry and sari shops were closed, except for the dim glow of Taj’s welcoming lights. Small placards outside offer an array of buffet specials: half-off for children under 7; weekend and holiday buffets ranging from $7.50 to $7.95; and weekday lunch buffets, a 15-meal choice, for $6.95.

Greeting customers nearly simultaneously is a sign warning that no credit cards or checks are accepted. Cash only. An ATM in Taj’s foyer attests to how serious the sign is. But inside that small entrance, one can see and, more importantly, detect the aroma of what has lured people inside.

Past the small door is plenty of room. The long rectangular dining room can comfortably seat nearly any party, from a couple looking for a cozy nook, to a family with seemingly unlimited relatives.

Lining the walls are paintings of life in an Indian utopia, and one of the Manhattan skyline, complete with flickering lights. The music is a mix of traditional and contemporary Indian sounds, a soundtrack to life on 74th Street.

Food is available as quick as customers can slip their jackets off. Hot dishes of chicken, rice, curry and stews simmer near the entrance. During a recent visit, the dishes included: chicken makhani, served with “fresh tomato, onion, butter and cream with Indian herbs and spices”; a deep dish of creamy goat curry; spiced and diced potatoes called aloo gobi; a creamy spinach stew with cubes of cheese called palak paneer and, arguably, the signature of all Indian cuisine, the red and white chunks of delicately seasoned tandoori chicken.

White rice, Jell-o, bread, salad and a variety of sweets are also available.

Even those with conservative taste buds will find their plate resembling a rainbow-laden palette. The overly polite wait staff is just as happy bringing out plateful of each dish, or letting customers serve themselves.

A la carte versions of food available on the buffet range from $6.25 to $10.50. Catering for parties and private affairs is also available.