Queens Tribune

135-20 39th Ave., Flushing
(718) 670-7400
delugerestaurant.com
CUISINE: Global
HOURS: 6-10:30 a.m. for breakfast, 12-3 p.m. for lunch, 6-11 p.m. for dinner
PARKING: Lot at hotel
TAKEOUT: Yes
CREDIT CARDS: All major

Three little words: opulence, luxury and taste.

From the indoor waterfall setting to the silk textiles that create an illusion of a Middle Eastern tent and the food that bursts with flavors and combinations that cannot be defined by any one cuisine, all three words describe Deluge.

The restaurant sits in the lower lobby of the Sheraton LaGuardia East hotel, its waterfall in view from the main entrance. Descend the stairs and enter the cozy lair that invites you in to sit, relax, and enjoy a superb meal.

Executive Chef Michael Navarro, who has been trained at the French Culinary Institute, has created a menu that is simply unique. It is like nothing else that exists in Queens, and he has managed to take the often-mundane process of serving up a few courses into an art form that is rivaled by only the finest chefs in the world.

We were welcomed with water and crisp flatbread served with a fresh hummus that carried more of a lemon flavor to it than most, which seem to be heavy on the garlic.

We placed our drink orders and asked our hostess, Natalia, to bring us something good.

What we were given is what Chef Michael refers to as “Small Plates,” created in sets of four; they are served to give diners a sample – a warm-up – in preparation for what lies ahead. You can order more than four and make a meal out of them on your own if you like. We had eight of these tapas-sized treats set before the three of us, and we set into each with just as much vigor as the next.

The roasted lamb tenderloin served with a tomato confit over toasted farrow was filled with spring flavors and offered a grain hardly ever seen outside of Middle Eastern cuisine. Next was warm pecorino fondue with thyme honey, hazelnuts and pepperoncini, which was smooth and rich, served with simple toasted rounds. These were served on the same setting as the grilled skirt steak with baby dandelion greens and chimichurri and the Mediterranean baby octopus, braised fennel, roasted red pepper and romesco.

The second set of small plates held an equal number of taste sensations. The sake glazed pork ribs were sweet and tender, a great contrast to the quail legs with crisp prosciutto and sage, which had distinct savory flavors. These were complemented with simple braised vegetables – mostly small peppers and zucchini florets – and seared big eye tuna served on a green apple, cucumber and mint salad.

With the first course tucked safely away in our bellies, we moved on to the starter ordered in between bites of tuna, quail and lamb. The hazelnut crusted foie gras with golden pineapple and brioche toast points was downright decadent. The duck liver had the slightest seared edge that, once pierced, gave way to a smooth, nearly molten interior that was perfectly matched by the crispness of brioche and the tartness of pineapple.

The baby rocket salad with grilled figs, spiced walnuts and crumbled bleu cheese featured a young arugula with such a masterful blend of cheese, oil, fruit and nuts it is sure to be the envy of the simple field green, cranberry, vinaigrette and chevre tossed in so many salad bowls throughout the world.

As we sat in our booth, servers would come from both sides, ducking in under the draped fabrics that surrounded us, much like the proverbial camel sticking its nose under the tent. But despite the smells from inside, we were able to shoo them away quickly.

This time when they came, we were again glad to see them, because they brought our entrees.

Pan roasted Japanese black sea bass was served with Okinawa purple sweet potatoes in a tomato-basil broth. The fish was light, soft and creamy, blending in well with the odd potatoes and absorbing just the right amount of flavor from the broth in which they were served.

The honey braised lamb shank was served on a mound of rapini and goat cheese smashed potatoes, which had the most beautiful mounds of cheese to give a wonderful kick in the side of the potatoes.

The lamb itself was tender, though not overcooked to the point where it would fall off the bone. As Goldilocks would say, it was just right. The honey braise added an unusual flavor to the lamb, separating it from its spiced Middle Eastern roots, but somehow re-solidifying it there at the same time.

We ended our evening with what seemed to be obvious selections for dessert. We shared an assortment of delightful butter, shortbread, chocolate and nut cookies. We also ordered the blood orange sorbet, drafting a 7-year-old into the greater world of desserts beyond such a wild range of lemon and vanilla.

We also got the rosemary poached pears, served with a scoop of cassis sorbet. Who knew that the combination of savory and sweet could be so good?

Oh yeah, Chef Michael, that’s who.

Despite the high-end luxury of the food and setting, the prices are reasonable. You can get four small plates for $18, starters and salads range from $6 to $16 and entrees will run you between $14 and $32.

It’s worth it. Go, eat like royalty, and enjoy!