Queens Tribune

Cavo Café & Lounge
42-18 31st Ave., Astoria
(718) 721-1001
Hours: 5 p.m. to 4 a.m., 7 days (kitchen closes at 2 a.m.)
Credit Cards: All
Parking: Free Valet (across the street)
Reservations: Suggested
www.cavocafelounge.com

I had the good fortune recently of going to dinner at one of the premier restaurants of Astoria’s burgeoning nighttime scene – Cavo. For those who have not been, the restaurant, bar and lounge is a unique location with dishes and atmosphere not to be missed. If you’ve been, you already know what I’m talking about.

With implied elements of air, fire, earth, water and wood blended into the design, Cavo’s gigantic interior feels warm and cozy despite its openness. Seated at a table a few steps up from the main floor we had a great view of the action; as dishes are brought up from the subterranean kitchen via stairs at one corner of the restaurant you see the helpful and plentiful staff work the room’s three levels. These guys are pros and it shows.

We started with some bread and a tapenade, but the real action began when we were served our “Small Plates,” a term for shared appetizers that is growing in popularity. We were served Saganaki, a thyme-crusted, flattened feta-style cheese that was set ablaze at the table; Moschari Me Polenta, braised short ribs of beef served over polenta with crisp shallots and goat milk cheese; Kavourokeftedes, jumbo crab cakes served over a ragout of peppers and caramelized shallot with a balsamic dressing; Htapodi Sta Karvouna, a grilled octopus salad with chickpeas, potatoes, tomatoes and parsley; and a special on our night lobster rolls. The rolls are a play on the New England classic, but served almost sushi style – with lobster and veggies cloaked in a tortilla wrap that is sliced and then drizzled with an aioli dressing.

Each was more fantastic than the next. The lobster was a humorous take on a traditional dish while the others were more serious. From the plating to the blend of textures, the appropriate portion sizes and blend of flavors, each was a delight found rarely in the borough. I can see why the lounge is such a success – no standard bar foods for you when you’re at Cavo.

A short note on the bar aspect – Cavo has a wide range of specialty martinis and other drinks. The homemade sangria was fruity with none of the bitterness that can often pop up when fruit meets booze. The golden pineapple mojito still has the crushed mint of the original, but the sweetness of the pineapple with coconut rum adds a new dimension to the flavor.

Moving on to the main courses, we shared Angoletti me Kolokythi, which was a butternut squash ravioli filled with fresh pumpkin in a braised veal sauce, and the Arnaki me Revithia, which was grilled lamb chops served with braised lamb osso bucco. Though two lamb dishes were on one plate, they were district in flavor and complemented each other perfectly.

We ended our evening with a molten chocolate cake, a delightful apple torte – both of which were served with vanilla gelato – and fresh orange sorbet.

With live flamenco on Thursday nights, “Greek Night” on
Wednesdays, belly dancing on Sundays and other entertainment set up on an indoor stage throughout the week, Cavo keeps you entertained; and in warm weather the huge outdoor backyard opens for dining and lounging.
Make your reservations now for Valentine’s Day, and be sure to enjoy this unusual treat; Cavo is truly a great place to hang out and one of the most creative kitchens in the borough. Do not miss it, and enjoy!