Queens Tribune

70-19 Grand Ave., Maspeth
(718) 899-8002
CUISINE: Irish Bistro
HOURS: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., 7 days
CREDIT CARDS: No

When the Cornerstone opened two years ago, it was hard to tell what it wanted to be. It seemed to mirror a diner style, with a broad menu and interesting daily specials, but in a considerably smaller space.

But it has grown up recently, giving itself a physical and menu transformation. The dark walls are lined with large plaques for chocolates, the miniature Tiffany style lamps that hang straight down over the tables ad cozy lighting. The place seems considerably more evocative of a friendly neighborhood dining spot you may find in any European capital, rather than the diner just down the street.

And the menu is greatly improved, to boot.

Sure, there are still some staples on the menu like a hearty cheeseburger served with steak fries or French Onion Soup, but we settled on a good range of choices in our visit.

We split an order of the herb-stuffed mushrooms, which were four on a plate and just the right size – absolutely fabulous.

My wife went with the Chicken Kiev as her main course, and got to choose between French Fries, mashed potatoes and rice – she took the mash, and was thrilled. The dish also came with perfectly cooked carrots and broccoli.

I went with the Chicken Pot Pie, which is less of a pie than some, but in a great way. The top of the pie sat like a giant, flaky biscuit on top of the enormous oval serving dish. Though the top wasn’t attached, letting the juices bubble up through the seam, it still covered the entire plate.

Our daughter chose from the extensive kids’ menu, picking chicken fingers that came with fries, but she could have had a kid-size shepherd’s pie, soups or any number of other dishes.

We’re definitely going to have to go back to Cornerstone. They’re still in the middle of their remodeling, but the giant chalkboard above the bar adds a touch of panache that brings us back to the feel of the European bistro – an Irish one at that. Enjoy!