Queens Tribune

21-64 Utopia Blvd.
(718) 351-6738
CUISINE: Italian
HOURS: Tues-Sat 4-11 p.m., Sun 1-10 p.m.
PARKING: Street

The large open space of Castel Mare can be deceiving. After all, one doesn’t often expect such personalized service at a large restaurant, but that is exactly what every guest at this delightful eatery receives.

As we were seated, and our drink orders were taken, a bevy of black-shirted wait staff buzzed around our table, making sure that our water glasses were filled, that we had bread immediately and that they could answer any questions about the menu.

After enjoying the bread – which was a hearty, oven baked sourdough and a delightfully flavored focaccia, we decided to have simple appetizers, sticking to fried calamari and mozzarella sticks, both of which were fine choices.

Moving on to our entrees, we decided to try one veal and one chicken special. The choices were tough though, because Castel Mare has such a wide range of dishes on the menu – from salads that are fit to be meals unto themselves to a wide variety of pasta, fish, beef, chicken and veal dishes on the regular menu.

But for us, it was to be a special night. The Veal Saltimboca, with prosciutto, cheese and mushrooms in a browned wine sauce was equal parts light and heavy, with overwhelming flavors that came from the smallest bites.

The Chicken Margarita, which seemed a devilish mix of Chicken Parmesan and Eggplant Parmesan with some prosciutto stuck in between, all served in a chunky, garlicky red sauce, just melted in your mouth.

While we ate our meals, Mrs. Farruggio took a break from the kitchen to check in on us to make sure we were enjoying ourselves. Again, the personal touch helped make this a wonderful dining experience.

We capped off the night with a lemon sorbet and an apple crumb cheesecake. Though the wait staff continued to buzz along, making sure our coffees were refilled, our water cups never dry and our place settings clean, we never got the feel that we were rushed, despite the obvious flow of customers in and out the doors.

Castel Mare may sit on an unassuming corner just off the Cross Island, but once word gets out about this place, don’t expect it to be a great secret for much longer. Enjoy!