Queens Tribune

Puccini Restaurant
ADDRESS: 20-14 Francis Lewis Blvd, Whitestone
PHONE: (718) 631-8788
FAX: (718) 631-3800
HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m Mon. to Thur., 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m Fri. to Sun. Open to 4 a.m. for deliveries Mon. to Sat.
CUISINE: Northern/Southern Italian
PAYMENTS: Credit cards accepted
PARKING: Yes, free.

What can one expect from two Chinese Americans opening an Italian restaurant in Whitestone? For one thing, Saltimbocca – chicken or veal sautéed with prosciutto in white wine herb sauce ($13.95). Or some dinner specials, with whatever fresh seafood co-owner Onson “One sweet potato” Yam finds for the day, from wild salmon, never farm-raised, to the extravagant Baked Seafood Casino in Clamshell ($8.95), a mélange of shrimp, scallops and calamari basking in each other’s flavors. Puccini’s cuisine is a blend of Northern and Southern Italian cooking, with an orchestrated twist.

“It’s Manhattan-style food,” said Michelle, who has been working with Yam for six months. That may be giving Manhattan too much credit, although Yam and his partner once ran a place on the Upper West Side. From the reasonable prices, with top entrees running $11.95 to $16.95, to a surprisingly diverse house wine list, to tailoring the dish to each customer’s preferences, Puccini beats a lot of Little Italy establishments hands down.

The main draw, however, is the cooking. Contrary to the recent trend of “just add butter, cheese or lard” to stimulate taste buds, chef Eddie Yam derives striking flavor by using fresh ingredients, a careful selection of herbs and delicate aromatic sauces. The result, even after a fresh crab meat-stuffed shitake mushroom in vodka sauce followed by a tender chicken in sweet Marsala, is room for dessert ($4.25-4.95). In addition to Tiramisu, gelatos, and sorbets, specials may include a Tartuffo or a Raspberry Cheese Cake.
For the snacking types, Puccini’s offers Anti Pasti ($6.50-8.50), such as Prosciutto with melon or steamed mussels, and a selection of traditional pizzas ($6.95-7.95). Pastas ($8.95-12.95) range from the Putanesca to the lavish Toscana, made with mushrooms, artichoke, asparagus and ricotta. The lunch menu consists of pastas, pizzas and sandwiches, with few options exceeding $7.

The restaurant is favored by couples and small groups, although the owners welcome parties of up to 75 people. Still lifes and landscapes decorate the faux-brick walls, salmon-colored napkins offset white tablecloths, and a few decorative plants accentuate the corners. Get rid of the mediocre easy jazz and the place would have a two-week wait, so go soon - the owners are savvy.