
Trattoria L’icontro serves some of the best handmade pastas in the borough . Tribune Photo by Ira Cohen
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Sripraphai
Woodside
Located at: 64-13 39th Ave.
(718) 899-9599
The benchmark for excellent Thai food is how well the kitchen balances its flavors. Some don’t get it quite right; sweetness overpowers the spice, salty outruns the sour, heat masks the delicate undertones. Lucky for Woodside gourmands, Sripraphai doesn’t ail from any such drunken swaggering in preparing its dishes.
In terms of authenticity and reach into the various culinary regions of Thailand, this is simply some of the best food in the entire city. Prepare your palate for flavorful curries and delicious laab, or Thai salads. The aromatic, refreshing tom yum soup is a good introduction to any meal, and just slightly rich curry rice noodles are spiced to perfection. We particularly enjoy the amazing flash-fried seafood laab, loaded with cashews, mint, lime and chili.
Go for the gai gaprow, a basil dish served with ground chicken (instead of in pieces, another Thai tradition often forsaken at many restaurants). Just watch out for blisters; when Sripraphai says a dish is hot, they mean it.

Fine Italian resturant Sapori d’lschia does a good wholesale business by day. Tribune Photo by Ira Cohen
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Trattoria L’incontro
Astoria
Located at: 21-76 31st St.
(718) 721-3532
Trattoria L’incontro, a grandly decorated kitchen with a casual, comfortable atmosphere, specializes in fresh, simple pasta dishes. The mother-and-son-owned restaurant shines in its prosciutto-covered brick oven pizzas, spaghetti and meatballs and other straightforward Roman and Abruzzi specialties.
Whet your appetite with crunchy flatbread and olive oil, but save room; the giant helpings at this homey bistro may leave you with leftovers. L’incontro has a long list of daily specials, too, but one of our favorites is a standard—the Risotto Terra e Mare, with shrimp and delicately seasoned, perfectly soft asparagus.
Sapori d’Ischia
Astoria
Located at: 21-76 31st St.
(718) 721-3532
During the day, this inconspicuous eatery sells wholesale Italian foods and pizza by the slice. At night, the discounted warehouse turns into a pricey restaurant (water will cost you three bucks), but fine Italian fans will find it worth the extra change.
Hidden among the auto repair shops and industrial buildings of Astoria’s 37th Ave., Sapori d’Ischia specializes in hearty, meticulously done meals. The fettuccini al Antonio, a creamy dish with fresh prosciutto prepared tableside in a Parmesan bowl, is loaded with flavor. Be sure and check daily risotto and ravioli dishes, too.
As the prices hint, you should expect nothing less than sophisticated and traditional Ischian fare from this upscale bistro; certain substitutions and additions may not be a welcome restriction to the chef. Trust the prix fixe menu—and grab some supplies from the daytime shop to have it your way at home.
718
Astoria
35-01 Ditmars Blvd. at 35th St.
(718) 204-5553
Brick Café
30-95 33rd St.
(718) 267-2735
Christos Hasapo-Taverna
41-08 23d Ave.
(718) 726-5195
Cavo
42-18 31st Ave.,
(718) 721-1001
Emack & Bolio’s
2150 31st St.
(718) 278-5380
Malagueta
25-35 36th St.
(718) 937-4821
Piccola Venezia
42-01 28th Ave.
(718) 721-8470
Ponticello
46-11 Broadway
(718) 278-4514
S’Agapo
34-21 34th Ave.
(718) 626-0303
Stamatis
3114 Broadway
(718) 204-8964
Taverna Kyclades
33-07 Ditmars Blvd.
(718) 545-8666
Telly’s Taverna
28-13 23rd Ave.
(718) 728-9194
Ubol’s Kitchen
24-42 Steinway St.
(718) 545-2874
Bayside
Caffe On The Green
201-10 Cross Island Pkwy.
(718) 423-7272
Erawan
42-31 Bell Blvd.
(718) 428-2112
Uncle Jack’s Steakhouse
39-40 Bell Blvd.
(718) 229-1100
Corona
Park Side
107-01 Corona Ave.
(718) 271-9274
Elmhurst
Ping’s Chinese Restaurant
83-02 Queens Blvd.
(718) 396-1238
Flushing
East Lake
4233 Main St.
(718) 539-8532
Joe’s Shanghai
136-21 37th Ave.
(718) 539-3838
Kum Gang San
138-28 Northern Blvd.
(718) 461-0909
Pho Bang
41-07 Kissena Blvd.
(718) 939-5520
Howard Beach
La Villa Pizzeria
8207 153rd Ave.
(718) 641-8259
Jackson Heights
Delhi Palace
37-33 74th St.
(718) 507-0666
Jackson Diner
37-47 74th St.
(718) 672-1232
Tierras Colombianas
82-18 Roosevelt Ave.
(718) 426-8868
Little Neck
La Baraka
25509 Northern Blvd.
(718) 428-1461
Long Island City
Manducatis
13-27 Jackson Ave.
(718) 729-4602
Tournesol
5012 Vernon Blvd.
(718) 472-4355
Water’s Edge
E. River and 44th Dr.
(718) 482-0033
Ozone Park
Don Peppe
135-58 Lefferts Blvd.
(718) 845-7587
Rego Park
London Lennies
63-88 Woodhaven Blvd.
(718) 894-8084
Sunnyside
Hemsin
39-17 Queens Blvd.
(718) 937 -1715