By Brian M. Rafferty
Did you ever wonder what the modern person in Queens has to do with ancient Babylonians? You may be surprised to learn that we share in a custom that goes back more than 4,000 years – the New Year’s Eve celebration.

Though the calendar did not officially recognize Jan. 1 as New Year’s Day until the age of Julius Caesar (hence our Julian calendar), the Babylonians were the first culture known to get down on the last night of the year, though it was more about the changing of the seasons than anything. Many of our traditions still include the debauchery of a pagan celebration, though considerably toned down from the days of their 11-day celebration that involved a heightened level of mood-altering drink and a reduced level of inhibition.
Come to think of it, we’re probably not all that different.
The modern New Year’s celebration is festive, loud and usually involves a big glittery ball, standing out in the cold, a countdown and cheers of joy followed by some random smooching.
But the celebrations would be nowhere without the varied culinary customs that myriad cultures bring to the party. Some are traditions based on faith, some on heritage, others on superstition.
Take the American South, for example. Black-eyed peas, collard greens, cornbread and stewed tomatoes rule the roost come Jan. 1. The thought is that on the first day of the year you eat the food of a pauper so that the rest of the year you’re sure to eat like a king. Also, the dishes have taken on additional symbolism – peas for pennies, greens for dollars and cornbread for gold.
Other cultures believe that the New Year is the restart of a cycle, and symbolize it by eating ring-shaped foods; the Dutch, for instance, eat doughnuts.
The central European tradition of hunting a boar on the first of the year has carried over to a preponderance of ham and pork products found on the tables of German, Swiss and Swedes come Jan. 1. The concept is that a pig roots forward, indicating progress. The opposite is thought of chickens and turkeys, which scratch backward, and serve as symbols of the past.
The Greeks celebrate New Year’s and St. Basil’s Day at the same time, and make lemon-flavored cakes (vasilopita), one of which has a coin baked inside. The person gets the coin is considered lucky.
In Brazil, lentils are a symbol of prosperity, so lentil soup or lentils with rice is prepared for the first meal of the New Year. The Japanese observe their New Year’s tradition of eating a noodle called toshikoshi soba, which means “sending out the old year.” This buckwheat noodle is quite long, and those who can swallow at least one of them without chewing or breaking it are supposed to enjoy good luck and a long life.
In Portugal and Spain, as the clock strikes midnight and the new year begins, people eat 12 grapes or raisins to bring them luck for all 12 months of the coming year. The same holds true for other Central and South American countries.
Herring and other fish find their way into traditions. Some Germans keep fish scales in their wallets to ensure good financial luck. Other traditions involve lentils and other grains that swell when cooked, to symbolize prosperity and growth throughout the new year.
And then there is the most modern tradition of popping open a bottle of champagne – the most expensive you can afford – to show that you really know how to celebrate and will enjoy quality and luxury throughout the year.
Some information provided by chowhound.com