By Brad Groznik
On Kislev 25 of the Jewish calendar, Dec. 21 of this year, the first Hanukkah candle is lit and the winter holiday season begins for Jews.
For eight consecutive nights, a different candle is lit on the menorah and Jewish families sing, play with the dreidel and feast.
Jewish food is as eclectic as its people, who hail from all over the world. Traditionally, Jewish food originated from three sects; Eastern European, Central European and Moroccan. Not surprisingly, many of the foods are similar because Judaism has written code of religious dietary laws, which is based in ancient Hebrew custom.
Many of the dietary laws have often been dismissed as outdated sanitary precautions but many Jews in Queens still follow the standards handed down to them from generations ago.
For example, it’s Jewish custom not to cook on the Sabbath, which is why slow cooking dishes like cholent and kugle are prepared prior to sundown Friday.
In the United States, German Jews were the first to organize and begin promoting their ethnic food. The earliest Jewish-American cookbook was Esther Levy’s “Jewish Cookery Book,” first published in Philadelphia 1871. But it wasn’t until around World War I that Jewish cooking began to be recognized by America’s diverse population.
Soon Russian, German and other Eastern European Jewish recipes were traded and today it can be difficult to distinguish the foods at a common Jewish-American dinner table.
Living in such an international borough as Queens, Russian Jews will often eat Hungarian Cabbage Strudel without a thought of history.
These days, Jews who overlook the strident dietary laws will often turn to ethnic fare for the holidays.
Probably the most traditional food eaten by Jews during the holiday season are latkes, or fried potato pancakes.
According to Joan Nathan, author of the “Jewish Holiday Kitchen”, the symbolism of the pancakes is threefold. They served as a reminder of the food hurriedly prepared for the Maccabees as they went before their military victory. The oil in which the pancakes are prepared symbolizes the cleansing and rededication of the Temple after it was defiled by the Assyrians. The third meaning, added in medieval times, signifies Judith’s chastity and humility over the lust and pride of Assyrian general Holofernes, who would have had the Jews slaughtered had Judith not fed him so well and given him so much wine that he fell asleep and she could kill him.
But as mentioned before Jews from different parts of the world eat differently. Here’s a sample Hanukkah menu from “The Jewish Holiday Kitchen” for three of the most common ethnic variations.

Eastern European
Russian Vegetable soup
Sauerbraten a la Nathan
Potatoes Latkes
Applesauce
Green Salad
Nut Horns

Moroccan
Eggplant Salad
Nicol Amsellm’s Spinach Salad
Moroccan Carrot Salad
Couscous
Moroccan Sweet Potato and Vegetables
Fijuelas
Ma’amoul (nut filled cookies)
Cigares (honey finger pastries

Central European
Consommé
Roast Goose with Chestnut and Apple Stuffing
Rumanian Fried Noodle Pudding
Endive, Grapefruit and Avocado Salad
Apple Streusel

Potato Latkes
Ingredients
10 medium potatoes
2 medium onions
2 large eggs
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, breadcrumbs or matzo meal
Salt and white pepper
Vegetable oil
1. Peal potatoes and place in cold water.
2. Alternatively grate onions and potatoes with grater over a mixing bowl.
3. Blend mixture with eggs, flour, salt and white pepper.
4. Heat oil in pan. Drop about one tablespoon of mixture and fry, turning once. When golden and crisp on each side, drain on paper towels. Serve with yogurt, sour cream, sugar or applesauce.