(CNS) – Grooms, take heart. There are some pretty simple guidelines on whether you show up in black tails, a striped stroller or a James Bond tuxedo for the big day. Mostly, you’ll take your cue from your bride.

"Everybody is sort of a satellite to the bride," explained Millie Martini Bratten, editor in chief of Bride’s magazine. "Her dress determines the formality of the event."

Bob Bennett is president of Men’s Apparel Group, which accounts for about 70 percent of the formalwear market with labels such as After Six, Raffinati and Oscar de la Renta. He agrees: "While the groom usually comes in to the store to look at the different styles, it’s the bride who most frequently makes the final decision. After all, this is her wedding and, besides, most grooms could care less. The same goes for the groomsmen. The bride is the one putting together the overall look."

Weddings in this country saw a definite increase in 1997 (2.383 million), compared to 1996 (2.342 million), the last year figures are available.

Recently, there have also been some shifts in the style of weddings. Personal expression – whether in more candid, spontaneous photography or in bridesmaids dressed in skirts and tops instead of dresses - has become increasingly popular.

For the groom’s style, Bennett said, "at the moment, what’s in is a slightly longer coat than what we’ve seen for the past few years. Also, men are favoring the new three- or four-button jackets with the higher button stance, so that the jackets close a little bit higher on the body. These are all updated versions of classic styles."

The tuxedo, of course, is never wrong for weddings, and has been the emblem of elegance for men ever since 1886, when Griswold Lorillard and his friends showed up for the Autumn Ball at New York’s Tuxedo Club wearing formal jackets with satin lapels - but tailless. All the other men were dressed in traditional tailcoats, and from then on, this shorter jacket, dubbed the "tuxedo," has been the world’s favorite formal jacket.

Today, manufacturers like Samuelsohn offer coordinating dinner jackets in vintage plaids, as well as classic black or white.

But even the tuxedo gets updated with color.

"What we’re seeing," said Bratten, "is that grooms are taking a very classic look and dressing it up and making it contemporary, say, with a sleek James Bond tuxedo personalized with a white business tie or a platinum tie and vest."

Still, the groom’s and groomsmen fashions come under the direction set by the bride and the kind of wedding they’ve chosen. There are basically four different kinds of weddings, each corresponding to different times of day. This is what ultimately determines whether the groom is in white tie, a stroller or tux.

Formal Daytime
Usually for 100 guests or more, before 6 p.m., frequently between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. The groom wears either a stroller (also called a walking coat), or tuxedo or cutaway (also called a morning coat). The classic choice is a dark-gray stroller, which is longer than a jacket, and worn with a gray vest, gray-striped trousers, wing-collared shirt and four-in-hand tie.

If the groom is in cutaway or stroller, groomsmen wear a stroller with striped trousers, spread-collar shirt and four-in-hand tie. Groom and groomsmen can also wear tuxedoes for a more contemporary style. Color and pattern in accessories can individualize the tuxedo. (Remember, cummerbunds can be worn with suspenders, but never with a vest, and the cummerbund’s pleats must face up.)

Fathers follow the groom’s style, and formalwear is optional for guests.

Very Formal Daytime
For 200 guests or more, before 6 p.m. The same as above but, usually, the cutaway (morning coat) is seen as more formal and is preferred. In black or dark gray, the cutaway tapers from the front waist button to a long, wide back tail and coordinates with striped trousers, a wing-collar shirt, ascot and coordinating vest.

Groomsmen follow the groom’s style, and if they wear strollers, they can choose either striped or matching trousers, but usually in the same color as the groom. But the groom must make sure that groomsmen’s choices in accessories are either the same, or don’t clash.

Formalwear is optional for guests, and the fathers’ style is determined by the groom’s.

Formal Evening
For 100 guests or more, after 6 p.m. Black tie: tuxedo or tailcoat. Choose black, gray or silver, year-round; white or ivory for warmer climates. Trousers match coat with a white wing- or spread-collar shirt; bow tie to match coat or cummerbund/vest. Groomsmen must coordinate in style and color to the groom. Ditto for fathers. For guests, formalwear is optional.

Very Formal Evening
For 200 guests or more, after 6 p.m. White-tie: Fred Astaire time. This is the creme de la creme of formal weddings, and everyone dresses accordingly.

For the groom, full-dress black tailcoat and trousers, white pique wing-collar shirt, white pique vest and tie. (For contemporary weddings, a tuxedo is allowed, but not preferred.) Groomsmen follow the groom’s style, and for the most formal weddings, wear identical tailcoat suits. Ditto for fathers. If "Black Tie" is specified on invitations, guests wear tuxedos.

Two last caveats: Bennett said if you’re in doubt on the style you want for your wedding, "go for classic, not trendy."

Bratten said: "It’s a very grown-up, sophisticated look that you’re presenting to your family and friends – but have fun with it."