Mandarin and Szechuan
Hours:
Sunday – Friday, noon to 11 p.m.; Saturday, noon to midnight
Credit Cards:
All major accepted
Handicapped Access:
Yes
Parking:
Free after 5:30 p.m. Monday - Friday
Saturday
and Sunday all day
Early evening’s shadowed light filtered through the
garden atrium adjoining the main dining room at Tung-Shing House and
hinted at the memorable dining experience ahead.
I toured the 225-seat family Mandarin and Szechuan
restaurant adorned with touches of Chinese decor, with manager and owner
Tom Tong, who noted its 20 year history and popularity. He said their
success was due in part to keeping up with the times and pointed to the
new Sushi Bar manned by expert Chef Ahmun.
But the restaurant’s history of repeat customers comes
mainly from the savory preparation and selection of soups, meat, poultry,
seafood, and vegetable dishes.
Although Tong boasted of one popular signature dish of
fresh ham with brown sauce (cooked overnight), garnished with watercress
and served with traditional white rice ($14.55), I chose another favorite,
the Peking style jumbo shrimp ($12.45).
Before I could dig into the pan-fried succulent shrimp
sautéed with ginger and scallions in a flavorful light brown sauce, Tong
had graciously set before me a sampling of appetizers including noodles in
a slightly sweet hosein sauce prepared either with or without meat
($4.95), pan-fried dumplings, enough for two ($4.25), and one of the daily
specials, clams in a pleasantly unusual black bean sauce ($5.95 appetizer,
$8.95 entree).
Also available and traditionally popular amongst Asians
was imported fresh eel sautéed in a light brown sauce with Shitake
mushrooms and bamboo shoots ($13.95 entree). Tong said the selection was
also a favorite in the Russian community.
Still, established selections such as Moo Goo Gai Pan,
spareribs, or fish filet with vegetables, are weekly fare for Louise and
Mario Buono who travel from the Greenpoint-Long Island City area to dine
at Tung-Shing and shop in the area. The
couple are married 52 years and often bring their children and friends to
dine with them.
— Arlene Lewis