Tikka Masala: 71-03 Grand Ave., Maspeth, NY 11378; 429-0101

Cuisine: Indian

Hours: Open for lunch 12 - 3 p.m. and for dinner from
5 - 11 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays.

Special Features: Ethnic decor and music.

Parking: On the street.

Shut off your beeper, put your cell phone on voice mail and prepare for a sea of Indian delicacies. In an atmosphere that removes its patron from the bustle of the city and implants them in an Eastern retreat, Maspeth’s Tikka Masala allows freedom from responsibilities.

"A lot of people don’t know Indian food," said proprietor Kabir - who has enjoyed a following of longtime guests since relocating from Sunnyside.

Papadam, a crispy bean wafer, will open a romantic, social or personal evening. Accompanied by a colorful triad of spicy sauces to please the palette, the light homemade bread is not filling.

While combing over the menu, the crimson and gold decor, accentuated by intricate hanging tapestries and wall images portraying cultural Indian themes may lead to adventuresome selections or the confidence to leave your evening in the hands of the chef.

If choosing on your own, begin with a vegetarian special (all $6.95) like Chana Sag, chick peas and creamed spinach, or Sabjee Bhajee, fresh spinach blended with tomatoes and onions. To add citrus zest, ask for a lemon.

To fill a hardy appetite or start off a meal for more than one, consider requesting an assorted plate of Masala’s seasoned meat, poultry and seafood selections cooked in a tandoor clay oven (which promises to trap the natural juices.) For a smaller meaty appetizer, try the Shami Kebab ($2.95), a seasoned meat patty.

The signature dish is a refreshing entree that balances a spiced tomato puree and your choice of meat cooked in a sauce with herbs, almonds and raisins. For $8.95, Tikki Masala entree, joined by white and saffron tinted rice, can be eaten alone or mixed with another entree. Don’t be afraid to share, the reach across the cozy tables won’t be far.

Those accustomed to Indian cuisine, who enjoy the tang of spices can choose from and array of curry specialties. Chicken, beef or lamb entrees and $7.95, $9.95 with fresh shrimp, scallops and crabmeat.

Indonesian dishes, skewered with coconut influences, are also available and prices moderately.

The portions are generous and leave you with the option to clear your plate, or take some home to make room for dessert. Firni ($1.50), an Indian rice pudding flavored with cardamon, honey, pistachio and a splash of rosewater and the rich Kulfi ($2.25), homemade pistachio ice cream will end any lunch or evening perfectly.

At Masala, there is no need to rush. Alone or coupled, Tikka Masala provides "the best of India."