Rouge
107-02 70th Road, Forest Hills;
718-793-5514

Cuisine: French

Hours: 5 to 10 p.m., Sunday to Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday. Hours to be expanded in the spring.

Credit Cards: All major

Parking: Street

The bustling epicenter of nightlife in Forest Hills got a new addition in February, when the quaint, European-style bistro Rouge brought its upscale yet moderately priced charm to Queens.

Everything from the “washclosets” to the French “no smoking” signs to the soft, dim lighting transports patrons to a Parisian atmosphere, where they can spend leisurely time chatting, drinking wine, and enjoying themselves. The plush throw pillows, sublime deep matte red walls, and quaint décor offer visitors a comfortable, even romantic, setting.     

As for the food, for starters, my waiter Bill brought out French bread with pitted olives, and suggested that I try an assortment of seasonal cheeses and cold cuts, which were a fantastic treat for the palate. The assortment includes three samples of cheese, ranging from a type of goat cheese to a cheese similar to white cheddar, as well as three types of meats, one similar to proscuitto and another similar to a potent sausage. It is fit for two at $14.95. 

According to Declan, who partnered with the owner, George, most of the cheeses are bought locally at the nearby shop Cheeses of the World. 

For those who believe a good French onion soup is hard to find, with some places making the consistency too watery or salty, Rouge fills the void and provides a hearty flavored soup ($6.95), perfect for those winter nights.   

The Côte de Porc Grillée Normande, Pomme au Four ($16.95) – a grilled double pork chop with natural jus, calvados, cream, and baked apple – is cooked to perfection, with the sauce acting as just the right complement to the mashed potatoes and asparagus sides. 

A good French meal without wine is criminal, so Rogue offers a special bonus on the wine list called the Flight of Wine ($12), which includes two ounces of four different wines, either red or white. Patrons can become their own wine aficionados, by tasting the reds – Merlot, Cotes du Rhone, St. Emillion, and Mordon – or perhaps the whites – Pinto Gris, Vouvray, Pouilly Fuisse, and Riesling.

Owner George said that he has worked hard to find unique, little known wines with distinct tastes for the list. 

Although I was stuffed by dessert time, I was tempted to try the popularly requested Tarte Tatin, an upside down caramel apple pie flavored with maple syrup ($7.95). The crème brulee ($7.95) sounded mouth-watering, as well. Rest assured, I will be back to try it all, and I highly recommend you do the same.