Rio Grill Churrascaria
International Barbecue Restaurant:
271-11 Union Tpke., New Hyde Park; 831-9300

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily; lunch 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Cuisine: Brazilian

Credit Cards: All major

Handicapped Accessible: Yes

When Brazil proclaimed itself South America’s biggest producer of cattle, she wasn’t lying.

Neither was the Rio Grill- North America’s answer to Brazilian cattle. This is a restaurant where servers slice freshly barbecued meats – 15 kinds – off a skewer right before your eyes. All you have to do is turn the spool on your table to green.

And before you turn your spool to red, you will have sampled meats as diverse as top sirloin; sheekh habab; short ribs; smoked ham; Brazilian sausage; cubed turkey with bacon; chicken drumsticks; porkloin; spare ribs and skirt steak, all for only $16.95. Children up to 10 years old eat for $7.50.

Should you prefer a certain type of meat, the Rio serves up a cowherd of gourmet dishes, both Brazilian and American-style. I tried the Salmon brazileiro, baked salmon marinated over red sauce; and Rio’s Chicken, chicken breast cooked in a special wine sauce with mushrooms. The chicken was light and flavorful, with tasty mushrooms in a zesty sauce, and the salmon was fantastic. As thoroughly cooked and juicy as any I’ve had, it toed the difficult line of being both substantial to the stomach and tender to the tongue.

And while we waited for our meats to arrive, we flirted with a long, tempting salad bar. The biggest surprise was the delicious ziti, served in a sweet tomato sauce that rivaled my Italian grandmothers’. While partial to such traditional salad bar fare as macaroni and potato salad, we also sampled the fried banana fingers, served like mozzarella sticks. Mashed, fried and dipped in honey, these were definitely Chica bananas. My guest also recommends the zucchini, carrot and squash salad.

Host Carlos Gomez made the meal even more entertaining, what with his knowledgeable suggestions and excellent musical choices. We couldn’t help but move to the Brazilian beats.

Dessert was a light, creamy flan, served with homemade whipped cream and a cherry on top. Two tall, steaming cappuccinos enhanced the sweet flavor.

And when it comes to beverages, Rio Grill is as flush as the Amazon rain forests. Brazilian lemonade and Pina and Strawberry Coladas are served, in addition to Guarana, a Brazilian soft drink. The wine list is also extensive (we loved the Merlot).

It could have been the Merlot, but we sure had a party at this Brazilian restaurant. From the decorative plants and flowers, twinkling overhead lights, blue and purple color scheme and flaming yellow mural on the wall, the Rio was a feast for all the senses. Try it with a friend.