Primavera Ristorante: 171-10 Northern Blvd., Flushing, 939-8800

Hours: Mon.-Fri., 12 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 3 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Cuisine: Italian

Handicapped Accessible: Yes

Credit Cards: All major

The Primavera Ristorante would like to consider itself, and be considered, a "family" restaurant. This does not mean a crowded room with high chairs and kiddie portions, although these are certainly available. It means that whether you’re on that pivotal first date, or having a mid-day business luncheon, Cyril, Prima’s proprietor, wants you to feel like you’re at "your" restaurant.

This is obvious in the decor. Green, white and breathing on the outside, with two nicely hedged bushes gracing your entrance, Prima is welcoming from the first step. The walls are breathing on the inside too. Several green, flowering plants hang down from the ceiling, subtly illuminated by rows of earth-colored stained-glass lamps.

And romance is in the air, what with the dim lighting, burgundy and white color scheme, brick walls and wood paneling. Decorated with small, colorful vases, each table is as quaint as the paintings which line the walls.

But the real romance begins with the meal. We started with the Funghi Ripiene ($5.95), mushroom caps stuffed with the chef’s secret mix of herbs and spices ($5.95); a warm, garlicky bruscetta ($2.00) and the Insalate Frutte Di Mare ($10.50), shrimp, calamari and scungili prepared with olive oil, lemon, diced celery, fresh aromatic basil and pimentos "put together with love" as the menu reads. The antipasti was delicious and well complimented by the house Cabernet.

We then moved on to the main course. I tried the Fettuccine Alfredo ($7.50), homemade egg noodles topped with heavy cream and parmesan cheese, while my guest sampled the Calamari Luciano ($11.95), tender rings of calamari sautéed in garlic, oil and white wine.

We were impressed! The fettuccine was as decadent as pasta gets, served rich and cheesy, and the calamari was delicately and tastefully sautéed. We were also pleased with the special Mescalon salad ($4.95), a very green toss served with chunks of Parmesan. The Mescalon was only one of the ever-changing dinner specials.

We were savoring an amazing chocolate mousse, served in two individual pudding dishes with real chocolate chips and whipped cream, and two cinnamon-spiced cappuccinos, when my guest remarked at the prices. "At such a low cost, how could the food be this good?" she said. We brought our concerns to Cyril.

Cyril explained that quality of food is his foremost concern. "That’s why we refuse discount cards," he explained. "We don’t want people to come here for a freebie and a glass of wine. We want them to come for delicious food so inexpensive it makes discounts unnecessary, and an upscale, yet honestly priced wine list."

And Cyril would know. He does all of the buying (and much of the eating) himself.

The Primavera party room seats up to 100 guests, and the cocktail lounge next door has a big screen TV. Wednesday’s are karaoke nights, and a singer/guitarist performs once a week.