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The Panache
Of Penang

PENANG: 82-84 Broadway, Elmhurst; 872-7380

CUISINE: Malaysian (also in Manhattan, Flushing and the latest at 14 Berry Hill Rd., Syosset Long Island)

PARKING: Inside small shopping center lot or curbside

HOURS: 7 days a week

PAYMENT: cash only

This small, popular purveyor of Malaysian cuisine offers a menu that reflects the Malaysian mix of cultures. The modern population includes Thai, Indian, Chinese, Indonesians and Arabs. Religions which also affect the cuisine include Muslim, Hindu and Buddhism. Cuisine is also related to climate with spicier foods served in tropical climates. Penang is located in an interesting enclave of Asian restaurants including Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai and offers a fusion cuisine enjoyable by all. Because of its popularity, the small parking lot may overflow into hard-to-find curbside parking.

Upon entering Penang, you are immediately served with a pot of hot tea. The waitresses in native costume will readily take your order by numbers on the menu if you have a problem pronouncing the names of the dishes clearly described in English. We started with # 1, the famed and favorite Malaysian specialty, Roti Canai ($1.95), which is prepared as you watch. The open kitchen enables you to admire the dexterity of the cook in preparing this crepe-like thin pancake to be served hot with a slightly spicy curry/chicken dipping sauce.

Penang Satay (#4) was our next dish because it also is a Malaysian specialty; marinated buds of beef or chicken on skewers, charcoal grilled to order and served with a special peanut sauce for dipping. Although thoughtfully designated on the menu as a spicy dish (with a small red pepper beside the number), it was not too spicy for our taste.

The long list of house specialties (#70 thru #86) include Kambing Rendang (lamb, coconut milk and chilies cooked over low heat) and Karti Ikan Kepala (fresh fish head with lemon grass paste in spicy red curry). From the beef section of the menu we ordered (#101) Beef with ginger and Scallions with Brown Sauce ($8.95). This flavorful dish of chewy beef was also enough for two and served piping hot from the kitchen. 

Poultry offerings include Spicy Thai Chicken ($8.50) and not spicy Pepai Duck (1/2) for $9.50. The seafood section of the menu offers many different fishes all prepared to order in different styles and with different sauces such as hot bean sauce, ginger sauce etc. There is also an assortment of shellfish dishes. For vegetarians, we suggest the Malaysian Buddhist Delight- a dish full of mixed vegetables, bean curd slices, mushrooms and the Cook’s special sauce ($7.95). Steamed white rice with any order is an extra 50 cents. Casseroles include lamb, beef, jumbo shrimp or even chicken feet with Chinese mushrooms.

Desserts and special drinks are listed. Included are Peanut pancakes ($3.50), ABC or Ice Kacang (shaved ice with red bean, corn, palm seeds, jelly, red rose syrup and coconut milk) for $1.95. The Lychee Drink is $1.95.

Enjoy your culinary visit to Malaysia.

                        — J. Davis

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