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Sizzling,
Raw Pleasure,
At Narita

Narita: 107-08 70 Road, Forest Hills, 718-263-2999

Cuisine: Japanese

Hours: Monday-Thursday, 12-3 p.m. & 5-10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday 12-3 p.m. & 5-11 p.m.; Sunday 5-10 p.m.

Major Credit Cards: Accepted

Handicapped Access: Yes

Parking: Meters on street, $2 at a local garage with a validated ticket.

It is becoming a tradition that every few weeks I end a busy day in the rat races with the simple elegance and good taste at Narita Japanese restaurant in Forest Hills.

For those who like the elegant works of edible art known as sushi, Narita’s is among the freshest available and I recommend the Narita Sushi ($18.95). Though pre-determined combinations of sushi piece abound on the menu, the Narita Sushi lets you select you favorite eight pieces from the sushi alacarte menu (with only a few exceptions) and one roll from the "best six-pieces menu" to design your own meal.

On evenings when I just wanted something light, I have been filled up by the miniature Haru-Maki (Japanese style eggrolls appetizer at $4.25) and the Kushiage (breaded fried shrimps and scallops on a skewer appetizer at $6.95) with a bowl of Miso Soup (soy bean soup, $2.50). The eggrolls are tasty and light while the skewered shrimps and scallops, fried to the same kind of fluffy appearance as Tempura, were fresh and plump. Light dining is also featured at their modest sushi bar.

For a more substantial meal the family can gather – and they often do – around the edges of the Hibachi tables while an expert chef prepares their food before their very eyes with elegance, flare and a super-hot cooking table (items served with soup, salad, fried rice and hibachi vegetables and range from "vegetable" for $15.95 to "Edo" or a lobstertail with two other hibachi items for $29.95).

Or, for a little less sizzle but just as much filling, enjoy the mysteries hidden in a Bento box. Served to the table in a covered and compartmentalized box, the bento has a little bit of everything from salad to entrée. My favorite is the Tsuki Bento (served with soup, salad and rice for $19.95) which has hidden inside portions of sushi, tempura, chicken teriyaki and lemon yaki.

But whatever your tastes, Narita is designed to offer an exploration into the Japanese cuisine with as many open-ended options as the curious diner could desire.

–Tamara Hartman

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