MOGUL PALACE: 248-08 Union Tpke., Bellerose, 831-0200

CUISINE: North Indian

HOURS: 12 p.m. to 10 p.m., Mon. through Thurs.; 12 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Fri. through Sun.

CREDIT CARDS: All major

HANDICAPPED ACCESSIBLE: Yes

Queens is no stranger to Indian food. However, one step into Mogul Palace’s imported, hand-painted doors, past a statue of a goddess offering gifts, into an authentic Mogulai dining room, you’ll feel like a stranger in strange land.

As ours was a lunch reservation, we started at the buffet table, which is available until 3:30 during the week and 4 on weekends. My guest, a Jain Indian and rigid vegeterian, was pleased to find four of the entrees amenable to his diet, while my more carniverous tastes were met Tandoori-style, in a bevy of meats. I sampled the Tandoori chicken, marinated overnight in a blend of yogurt, ginger and garlic; chiken tikka, served boneless and fresh from the clay oven; tandoori shrimp, marinated in yogurt, lemon juice, ginger and garlic; and fish tikka, exotically spiced with chillies and served ajwain. Unlike some Indian restaurants that over-estimate the heat threshold of American diners, the Palace served meats that were as mild as they were tasty.

My guest, on the other hand, tried the Yellow Dal, a harmonious lentil dish combined with tomatoes and ginger and simmered overnight; the palak paneer, a juicy spinach and cheese combo; and a delicious eggplant and potato platter. He said the dishes posed a threat even to his momma’s homeamade best.

While my Mogulai waiter was helpful in explaining exactly what I was eating, my Indian guest was the one instructing me how to eat. First of all, Indian food should be eaten with the hands (squeamish? the Palace kindly provides knives and forks). The Naan bread, or refined flour bread sprinkled with sesame seeds, and Roti, whole wheat flour bread cooked in a clay oven, should be used as a "scoop" to bring out the flavor. And finally, the Indian tradition is to eat everything on your plate.

Well, I had no trouble obeying the latter rule; the first two kind of slipped through my American fingers. But no matter; the food was delicious. I especially enjoyed the Naan bread (which I surreptiously dipped in a tangy mango chutney) and the fish tikka, which satisfied me in itself. And not only did our waiter bring us some Tandoori meats straight out of the clay oven, he brought with them two tall Mango Lassi drinks, served cold and sweet.

Heeding another Indian tradition, we saved the rice for last. The Basmati Pulao, naturally aromatic long grain rice with cherry, was delicious, and whetted our appetite for dessert. Among the many sweets we savored were the Gajar Halwa, a carrot-and-almond dessert served piping hot; the Rasmalai; cottage cheese pattice in cream condensed milk sauce; and the Gulab Jamun; golden fried milk pastry soaked in honey syrup.

So, if you’re looking for a delicious, inexpensive lunch (the buffet is only $5.99), an exotic dinner or a place to have a party (the Palace has a beautiful catering room downstairs that seats about 100), Mogul Palace is the place for you. And don’t forget to sample a free handful of Indian candy on your way out.