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Great
American Dining

Leo’s: 355 Plandome Rd., Manhassett. (516) 365-0235

Cuisine: American

Hours: 11:30-4 a.m. weekends; 11:30-1 a.m. during the week. Lunch Monday-Saturday; brunch on Sunday.

Parking: Private lot

Credit: All major cards.

If the fourth of July has left you still hungry for the foods that have made America great, then it’s time to ride out to Leo’s.

Don’t worry . . . they have ample parking of their own and the short ride outside the Queens border is certainly worth the time, whether you’re exploring other neighborhoods with the family on a beautiful summer weekend, running out for lunch or looking for a good place to watch a great ballgame. The interior takes the best that "Cheers" had to offer, enhances it with the elegance and beautifully hung lighting, comfortable booth, and the names of local sports teams, and serves it all up in a setting that’s suitable for a family dinner or a singles’ sports night out.

I pulled in for lunch and was immediately – and happily – overwhelmed.

Co-owner Jim Falk (who shares responsibilities with his brother Phil Falk and partner Kevin Boyle) explained that this five-month-old establishment has picked up the tradition that he believes makes their Garden City establishment (of 30 years) a great success. In addition to an extensive standard menu, they offer a "specialties" menu daily, each with over 20 entrees of their own. A large selection of regular favorites, and an equally impressive selection of daily specials means there is always something perfect on the menu for every family member, no matter their age or generation.

I tried a selection from the "Starters & Munchies" section consisting of Homemade Chunky Chicken Noodle Soup (cup $3, and they do mean chunky . . . delicious), the Pork Dumplings served with "outrageous scallion dipping sauce" ($7.95, fried to a perfect and not-greasy, crisp, and again, their description fits) and Leo’s Famous Chili (cup $3.95). The chili was thick, mild, very flavorful and designed to whatever your chili desires might be – you choose the topping and the spice level.

Full from just the munchies, I tried a "Sandwich Board" selection of Baked Virginia Ham and Cheese ($6.25) that was overstuffed with cold cuts and everything you could want from a sandwich.

But reliable sources indicated that once you’ve tried lunch, you’ll have to go back for a dinner featuring their outstanding pasta dishes and incredible lobster deals. I know I will.

— Tamara Hartman

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