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La Nora: 158-22 Cross Bay Blvd., Howard Beach, 843-8651

Cuisine: Italian

Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday 5-11 p.m.; Sunday 1-9 p.m.

Credit Cards: All accepted except Discover

Parking: Lot for diners only.

Handicapped Accessible: Yes

La Nora is not a place to go for dinner. It is a place to go to dine and experience food to its fullest in the kind of comfort and grace it was meant to be served in.

Owners Giovanni Graziuso and John Sindona took over this long established dining tradition about seven months ago and their leadership at La Nora is so new that their menus are only expected back from the printer this week. But regulars can still select from the items on La Nora’s list of standards or from the daily menu of something specials that will be featured when the revised menus arrive.

The sophisticated and charming Danny helped me to select from a verbal selection of specials filled with what sounded like gentle touches for satisfying dining.

Among the appetizers I tried the seafood salad . . . overflowing with fresh shrimp, calamari, scallops, squid, and crab meat and tossed in a combination of lemon and garlic that was just enough to make it taste like it came straight from the sea ($9.75).

I sampled three entrees, and all were divine. Unbelievably tender medallions of beef were tucked under a beef "reteullier" sauce ($21.95) and a Monk Fish Filet Marechiara offered a light and lemony sauce to accent a generous and very fresh helping of fish ($18.95). Finally, a beautifully prepared Chicken Breast Contadina was also incredibly tender and complimented by a gently flavored sauce with tomatoes and onions ($16.95).

Each meal is topped off with a selection of fresh fruits, which included slices of cantaloupe, orange, strawberry, kiwi, grapes and watermelon the evening I was there.

As for the desserts – I enjoyed a delightful Wild Berry Tart and I didn’t bother to ask the price . . . it just didn’t matter. And it won’t for you, too. Whatever the cost, it is a bargain.

From the dark wood interior, to the central skylight that made candles a pleasing addition as night fell, from the accent of flowers in the wall paintings and on the tables, to the servers in tuxedoes . . . right down to the espresso, La Nora offered the perfect evening meal for a Saturday night.

And as I left the restaurant, I suddenly had the urge to go dancing and enjoy life. Was it the cool September evening or was it La Nora? Go and find out for yourself.

— Tamara Hartman

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