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Of Heavenly
Clam Chowder
& Other Gifts
Near The Sea

La Motta’s Waterside Restaurant:
10 Matinecock Ave., Port Washington

Cuisine: "Modern American with global influences"

Hours: Sunday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Friday & Saturday 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Brunch buffet Sunday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Credit Cards: All Major

Parking: Private Lot

Website: www.lamottas.com

There is something relaxing and comforting about the water that just makes you hungry . . . and it’s called LaMotta’s.

I stopped in on one of the many recent rainy nights, and even the rain couldn’t dampen the charm and comfort of this beautiful restaurant filled with nautical themes, history and delicious food.

The establishment describes their food as "modern American with global influences," and I could find no better way to put it. You’ll find stone oven pizza and quesadillas on the lunch menu, lobster and Drunken Fire Pot Shrimp on the dinner menu as they cover all of the standards in American cuisine while adding a touch of the world influence. It is a theme that goes well with the World’s Fair "red and white umbrella" which is the center piece of the restaurant’s frame (more on that after the food).

From their dinner selections, I now compare all other clam chowders to LaMotta’s Clam Chowder Boule ($5.95). A New England chowder heavy with tender clams, the soup is served in a bowl of bread that is almost as delectable as the chowder itself.

The Rigatoni Al Fresco ($14.95) was tossed with generous portions of roasted peppers, onions, zucchini, eggplant, tossed with pomodoro, topped with ciligene mozarella . . . wonderful.

And the Drunken Fire Pot Shrimp (couldn’t resist the name, $19.95) is spicy hot "seared then Polynesian simmered, sticky rice." It reminded me of some of the Thai dishes I enjoy most and the presentation was simple and delicious (the shrimp come nestled in an edible basket).

The Frutti Di Mare (linguini, shrimp, mussels, clams, seafood tomato sauce, $17.95) will be more than you can finish, though you’ll enjoy every bite, and I tried the Chai Flan (vanilla, cardamom, cinnamon, custard flan, $7) which was beautifully presented and a wonderful twist on the custard dessert.

The restaurant is complete with a friendly and amply sized bar, indoor seating when the rain persists and dockside seating to enjoy the fresh air over Manhasset Bay.

As for their their "red and white umbrella," it was built by Owens-Corning Fiberglass Corporation as part of the Sinclair Oil company’s exhibition at the 1964/65 New York World’s Fair. Their history on the back of each menu explains "Sinclair was awarded the contract to supply fuel to the fair’s 825-boat state-of-the-art marina in Flushing Bay, and they placed the umbrella over the floating fuel dock at the front of the marina. The umbrella became the main attraction of the World’s Fair Marina and the focus of thousands of photographs."

The dock was abandoned after the fair, and in 1968 Mario S. LaMotta joined with Sinclair Oil to renovate the dock and tow it to Manhasset Bay where it sat at the head of the Bay Marina and was used once again for refueling. When the Marina began construction of LaMotta’s waterside restaurant in 1993, the historic "umbrella" was built in to the restaurant’s construction and now serves as an easy landmark from the coast on the water as you near the restaurant as well as the protection for a different kind of world-class fare.

If you’re curious about the history and would like a look at the umbrella-like dome, you’ll be able to check it all out on the web within the coming weeks at www.lamottas.com. If you’re curious about the food – don’t cheat yourself – stop by in person and don’t settle for the menu on the web. For that matter, stop by to see the dome yourself . . . you’ll be delighted you did.

— Tamara Hartman

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