La Campagna:
85-19 126th Street, Richmond Hill; 846-4065

Cuisine: Italian food, much from southern Italy, adjoining pizzeria.

Seating: This countrified restaurant seats 70 to 80 people, easily accessible by wheelchairs.

Hours: Noon to 11 p.m.

Parking: In a plaza with lots of available parking.

Credit Cards: Major ones accepted.

If you feel like eating authentic Italian cuisine, skip the hassle of a flight out of JFK, and veer off the Van Wyck Expressway to La Campagna in Richmond Hill.

La Campagna is owned and operated by 22-year-old Franco Vendome and his uncle Tony Petito. Don’t let Vendome’s youth fool you — he inherited his talents from a family of restaurateurs. His parents have Nino’s in Manhattan and his aunt has Louigi’s in Jackson Heights.

To appease the endless fancies of your nose but a limited stomach, start the meal off with Antipasto Caldo ($7.95). This hot mixed bag appetizer includes eggplant rollatini with ricotta cheese, egg, mozzarella, parsley and garlic. It is also accompanied by fresh shrimp and baked clams. Or to keep things simple, go for the Portabello Alla Griglia ($5.95). It is grilled portabello mushroom stuffed with celery, carrot, ground onions and shallots and garlic gloves served over mesculin and topped with Balsamic Vinegar.

Moving on to the main course, ask Vendome if he is serving La Campagna’s special Filet of Red Snapper ($17.95). This intricate dish is flavored with fresh garlic, onions, green olive, fresh basil, white wine, shiitake mushrooms and onions. It also has a strong, but not overwhelming addition of anchovies.

Another fine choice is the Pollo de Ripieno ($15.95) — stuffed chicken filled with prosciutto, spinach mozzarella cheese and is sautéed with shallots, shittake mushroom and the chef’s brown sauce. If you’re really hungry then tackle the savory Castate di Vitello ($17.95). This large grilled veal chop is sautéed in olive oil and flavored by sprinkles of fresh oregano and rosemary.

Though the meals are copious, it would be a sin to pass up on the desserts (all priced at $4.50). Try the ever-rich traditional Tiramisu whose ladyfingers are dipped in expresso and accompanied by heavy cream and marscipone. It would be hard to resist the calls of La Campagna’s dessert enchantress, the Pear Charlot. Standing by its name, it’s a treat to eat your way into the middle layer of chocolate mousse, or the shower of strawberry and mango Pure.