Cuisine: Japanese

Hours: Monday, closed; Tuesday-Thursday,
5 p.m. - 10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.;
Sunday, 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Credit Cards Accepted: All major

Parking: Large lot

From the moment my dining companion and I entered the softly lit, elaborately decorated dining room of Kiss’o Japanese Restaurant in New Hyde Park, we knew we were going to enjoy the dining experience.

The elegant restaurant, which is named for “prosperity” and located in the Lake Success Shopping Center, features beautiful Japanese art on both the walls and on the ceiling, as well as fine wooden panels that keep the restaurant’s tables and booths separate. The serene and relaxing atmosphere of Kiss’o combined with attentive servers, a full bar, and a wide range of exotic Japanese dishes should be enough to transport anyone away from their troubles and into a world of peaceful eating bliss.

The manager of Kiss’o, Julie Chang, decided we should try several specialty appetizers, including Toro Tartar ($20) and Tuna Tatalci in a Ponzu Vinaigrette Sauce ($13.50). The Toro Tartar, which is raw Blue Fin Tuna Belly over a combination of rice and black caviar with wedges of avocado on the side, was heavenly, with just the right blend of strong and mild flavors. The Tuna Tatalci, which is seared tuna with fresh garlic and a vinaigrette sauce, disappeared quickly from our plates, as we used our chopsticks to pick up the thinly sliced meaty fish.

Next Chang recommended the chef’s special Spring Roll ($9), which featured egg custard and eel wrapped in a thin layer of dough. The contrasting tastes of the egg and the eel meshed together perfectly, and the crispness of the dough gave it added bite.

We also tasted a platter of Tempura ($6), or lightly battered shrimp and vegetables fried. The pieces of Tempura were not oily or greasy, but light, airy and perfect.

Chicken Teriyaki ($12) was the next thing brought to us, with tender, juicy chicken and sweet, tasty teriyaki sauce. The meal comes with roasted vegetables, and for $3 more, delicious Miso Soup and Tossed Salad in a tangy and sweet Ginger Dressing.

To complete the meal, we tried Fried Ice Cream ($6), which featured both chocolate and vanilla ice cream wrapped in dough, fried, and covered in chocolate and vanilla syrup. The decoration on the plate was beautiful, with thin apple cuts standing up and spread out like a fan.

Each of the dishes was presented in artistic style, with large portions displayed in elegant fashion. Dinner and lunch specials are available, as well as a full sushi bar.

The variety on this menu is unsurpassed, and there is something for everyone. For those who want to try everything, Kiss’o also has nine-course and seven-course sampler meals for varying prices.