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Jagerhouse
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To Fine Food

Jaegerhouse: 97-11 Queens Blvd., Rego Park, 897-3035 or 897-3036

Cuisine: German, Irish & Continental

Hours: open 7 days for lunch & dinner, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Late night bar hours.

Credit Cards: all major cards accepted

Parking: validates for the Sears/Marshall’s parking lot; street parking

As the weather took one of its dips into the icy this week, my parents and I marched briskly up to the outstretched awning of what we believed was going to be a big bar, small restaurant kind of place.

There was a big bar – the friendly kind you go to to enjoy the spirits of life – but beyond that a large yet cozy dining room, complete with inviting, velvet-lined booths, Bavarian-style paintings on the white-washed walls, and the knowledge that you have escaped the cold for something good.

Pop had the Wiener Schnitzel, I tried the Roast Loin of Pork (both complete dinners with appetizer, homemade salad bar, soup, entrée, potato, vegetable, coffee and dessert for just $15.95 – no, that’s not a typo) and Mom ordered the Veal Cordon Bleu (stuffed with ham & cheese, $15.95). We all went home with leftovers to fight over the next day.

The day’s soup was a very fresh and very homemade chicken corn chowder with chunks of potato. The salad bar was complete with the cold cucumber salad and hot German potato salad that are part of any good German meal.

And although my family has long had our own favorite German restaurant in Queens (for serving Saurbraten almost as good as Nana’s), I had to admit it. Jaegerhouse’s Roast Loin of Pork was the best I had ever had in Queens, with apologies to Nana.

Then the sweetest Irish woman from Maspeth sat down next to my German-American Pop, and, with a hint of the brogue in her voice, told us she owned the place.

Anna Walsh, who owns Jaegerhouse with her brother Brendan Buggy, came to the establishment in 1975 as a waitress. She bartended for 13 years, and has been in charge now for over six years. It was clear to us that her knowledge of the place and her warm welcoming ways were what made Jaegerhouse outstanding, but she disagreed. She credits the chef.

And that too is true, of course. Chef Cicello – a resident of Elmhurst – has been at Jaegerhouse three years and brings a tremendous array of culinary experience to this local restaurant, including Luchow’s, the Four Seasons, and Tavern on the Green.

And let’s not forget the graciousness of our server – Vera – who knew just what to say and when to say it.

Not ready for a German meal? Try some of their Irish specialties. Though Time Out New York’s new annual guide "Eating & Drinking 2000" featured them as one of the best spots for German food in the city, they added with heavy emphasis that you should try their Irish dishes as well.

Jaegerhouse is the old-fashioned kind of place that warms your spirits and your dinner conversation as well as your appetite. Stop by and make sure to say "hi" to Anna for us. She’s waiting with a Jaegerhouse Special Coffee that will melt away all of that Queens cold.

—Tamara Hartman

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