IL GABBIANO RISTORANTE: 188-17 Union Tpke., Flushing, NY 11366, 464-3133

CUISINE: Italian east coast style

OPEN: Closed Tuesdays. Open 6 days from 3p.m. until 10p.m. (11p.m. Fri. & Sat.)

DÉCOR: Comfortable, soft music, attractive painted ceiling with indirect lighting

CATERING: Yes, on and off premises

PARKING: Curbside (no meters just around the corner on side street)

HANDICAPPED ACCESSSIBLE: Yes, no stairs

CREDIT CARDS: All major cards accepted

Visiting Il Gababiano Ristorante with Owner Vito brought back memories of Sunday dinners at my Madrina’s (Italian for Godmother). We left the food selection completely in Vito’s expert hands. (NOTE: Always listen to the Specials Of The Day- they reflect the best available on the market as well as the special skills of the chef.)

Our first attractive presentation was a fresh Seafood Salad replete with shrimp and calamari on a bed of mixed greens lightly dressed with olive oil and garlic ($8.50). This was followed by Stuffed Mushrooms filled with eggplant and zucchini topped with a surprisingly light, fresh tomato sauce. A tasty tidbit!

A must-try pasta course is the Gnocchi — small, light dumplings topped with fresh tomato sauce and decorated with tiny cubes of Mozzarella — one of the best we have found while dining at hundreds of Italian restaurants. The meal continued with a cooked-to-perfection pasta linguini dressed with oil and garlic and topped with shrimp.

We accompanied our dinner with a house wine; a nice red Grifo Ruvodi from Bari, Puglia, Vito’s home region on the "heel" of Italy’s "boot". Being from this location near the sea also caused Vito to name his restaurant with the Italian word for seagull — an image you will see in the décor and on the business card.

After determining that we like seafood and game meat, Vito provided a great sampling of his chef’s ability to produce a variety of well-prepared, attractive dishes by serving slices of Venison in Brown Sauce topped with lots of sliced Portobello mushrooms and Red Snapper (Livorese style with black olives and capers). The snapper was extraordinarily tender and "flaked" easily with a fork.

Although we barely had room, we had to complete this classic, multi-course meal with dessert. We found the made-on-the-premises Tira Mi Su rich and creamy, the Sambucca in our espresso was a nice touch and the final toast with Grappa was a crowning moment.

Instead of an a la carte meal such as ours, you may enjoy the Complete Dinner offering of any appetizer from the menu, a chicken or veal entrée plus dessert and coffee for $18.95. Either way, your Italian meal will be memorable.