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That's Italian

Il Fagiano: 17-12 Utopia Parkway, Whitestone, 352-6896

Hours: 12 p.m. - 10 p.m., daily.

Parking: Available on street.

Credit: Major Credit Cards Accepted.

It has been three years since Joe Romano opened Il Fagiano, and – happily — Utopia Parkway has never been the same. Situated in the tranquil neighborhood of Whitestone, the restaurant offers an atmosphere that cannot be beaten, and food of the highest quality that will have you "word of mouthing" to all your friends.

Joe greets you at the door with a smile, and you can sit down at the fully stocked bar for either a domestic beer ($3) or the imported variety ($3.75). A glass of fine red merlot ($3.50) is also a perfect compliment to any meal.

The place is usually packed, and the sounds of conversation and laughter set the mood for a great time. As soon as I sat down at the table a basket of hot bread was brought over. I ordered a cola ($1.50) and enjoyed some of the bread with whipped butter.

The extensive list of appetizers caused me to order two. The Grigliata de Verdure ($4.95) was a delightful mix of grilled vegetables, tomatoes, green peppers and eggplant — all seared to perfection. The Calamari alla Griglia was another special treat — grilled squid cooked with garlic, olive oil, lemon, and herbs.

No Italian meal is complete without a salad, so I tried the Insalata di Caesar ($3.95) Fresh greens, crisp croutons, and intense dressing really improved on a timeless classic.

For the main course I had the Veal Marsala ($14.50). Perfectly tender, sauteed with mushrooms, and cooked in marsala wine, it was truly an experience in dining. But, I couldn’t stop there, and also selected the Pollo Milanese Capricciosa ($9.95). It consisted of a pan fried chicken, topped with fresh diced tomatoes, basil, oil, and balsamic vinegar.

After the meal, a plate of fresh fruit was brought over. Crisp watermelon, cantalope, and orange touched my taste buds — for a second time.

There are three main things to look for when eating out. Atmosphere, hospitality, and most importantly quality of the meal. Il Fagiano excells at all of them, making it one of the finest Italian experiences in Queens.

— Josh Kaufman

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