Green Papaya
38-12 Prince St., Flushing

Cuisine: Thai

Phone: 353-1888

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., seven days

Parking: Municipal lot across the street

Credit: Cash only

Only two months old, the Green Papaya is already attracting Asian and non-Asian local residents because of its vibrant fresh cuisine and attentive service.

Owner Ma Tai is an American success story. Starting 30 years ago when he arrived here having little money and knowing little English, his ambitious hard work and knowledge of Asian cuisine has served him well in establishing his restaurants. His latest restaurant, the Green Papaya, is small in size but has a large menu, which offers all the classic dishes from meat and seafood to curry and vegetarian.

We started with a luscious soup, Tom Kha Gal or Goong, an herb soup made with coconut cream milk, mushrooms, galanga and lime juice with either chicken or shrimp ($3 small, $6 large).

We also had a hot and spicy Lemongrass soup and a special appetizer — Peek Gai Yud Sai — a labor-intensive dish of a boneless chicken wing stuffed with ground chicken, shrimp and glass noodles then breaded and deep fried. It is served with a chili or plum sauce for dipping ($3).

We enjoyed the classic Satays of chicken and beef marinated in herbs and served with peanut and cucumber sauces — 4 skewers for $5.

There are many noodle dishes served with fish, chicken, pork or beef. All portions are generous and reasonably priced.

One of our entrees was Pla Rad Prig — freshly prepared, crispy chili fish cooked and served whole topped with chili and garlic sauce ($19). Our other entrée was Pad Puk Ruam — sautéed mixed vegetables, fresh, crisp and bite-sized green peppers, several kinds of mushrooms, Oriental long green beans, bamboo shouts, bean sprouts etc. It was a healthy, filling dish for $6.

The menu lists an assortment of curries with chicken, duck, pork, beef, squid or octopus for $5 to $8. Two great accompaniments were Yum or Thai salads. We especially enjoyed the Som Tum (green papaya) Salad — a refreshing mix of shredded green papaya, tomato, string beans and red chili peppers ($6).

With the meal we had the national beer, Thai Singa (Tiger Beer) — only $2.50 and a perfect match for the cuisine. Another drink you should try is the special ice tea made with milk ($1.50).

We still couldn’t resist the dessert offerings: fried bananas in a crisp wrapping surrounding a mound of coconut ice cream. The other irresistible meal-ender was Sticky (sweet) Rice surrounded by fresh sliced mango.

In addition to Mr. Ma and his attentive staff, we had the pleasure of meeting his two delightful daughters — Irene and Elaine — who dropped by for some home-style food but who admitted to having a liking for pizza and hamburgers. That’s the way it is in Flushing where every country’s food is our food.