FM: 69-33 Austin St, Forest Hills;
CREDIT CARDS: All major
HOURS: Sunday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. , Friday to Saturday 11:30 to 4
a.m. Kitchen closes at midnight on the weekends. Bar menu available until 2 a.m.
HANDICAP ACCESSIBLE: Yes
No, youre not in SoHo anymore. Youre in Forest Hills, on Austin Street, and
the restaurant youre in is called FM. You think its the high frequencies that
have you feeling transplanted? Could be, six-week-old FM is quickly becoming known for its
jazz and funk musical talent. But more likely its the pastel, lounge decor; the
high, loftish ceilings; the spotlights; and the stage. FM brings to Austin Street
precisely what it brings to the dial the newest, hippest waves.
For example, in his 25 years of cooking experience at such staid Manhattan restaurants
as Chumleys in the Village and Keens Chop House in Murray Hill, Chef Peter Lariviere
has developed a unique style of cooking which he refers to as the new New York
cuisine. From these bistros of yesteryear, where the likes of Diamond Jim Brady and Lilly
Lantree were often seen, Peter has learned what New Yorkers like and, more importantly,
what they expect when they dine out: choice, succulent food items served with a modicum of
creativity and a dollop of tradition.
One modicum of creativity at FM is sous chef Craig Winkler. From the miscellany of
appetizers to the melange of desserts, Winkler takes a bite out of the big Apple with his
saucy French fetes. But lets take it from the top.
The appetizers. Maybe it was the oyster sauce, but my risotto with wild mushrooms
appetizer had me smitten at first bite. Flavored with pecorino cheese, the perfectly
cooked arborio rice brought a world of new sensations to my palate, and my heart fluttered
for the portobello mushrooms.
For an entree, I opted for the marinated chicken breast, served tender over seasoned
summer vegetables and dripping with semi-sweet sauce. Similarly plucky, my guest also
ordered the chicken breast, but hers came flame-broiled with a choice of three sauces. Our
waiter permitted us to sample from all three, and while my heart went out (on fire!) to
the spiciest chipotle sauce, my gentle guest could hardly tackle the honey-mustard. But
she had nothing but compliments for the tender white meat and its seasoned rice
And we even made room for dessert! Good Queens Girl that I am, I opted for the most
American dish on the menu - FMs "famous" Oreo Cookie Crusted Cheesecake.
Drizzled with caramel, the cake was as sweet as cheesecake can be, and positively
dangerous in its chocolate armor. My guest, the more cultured of us two, opted for the
chocolate soufflé cake, which was as flirtatious and debonair as the country it salutes.
After our final cappuccinos, we extended our compliments to the chef and promised to be
back between Wednesday and Friday to check out FMs funky urban grooves and
after-hours bar menu. You should join us, too. FM is sure to become Forest Hills
next best place to see and be seen