FM: 69-33 Austin St, Forest Hills; 793-5111

CREDIT CARDS: All major

HOURS: Sunday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. , Friday to Saturday 11:30 to 4 a.m. Kitchen closes at midnight on the weekends. Bar menu available until 2 a.m.

HANDICAP ACCESSIBLE: Yes

No, you’re not in SoHo anymore. You’re in Forest Hills, on Austin Street, and the restaurant you’re in is called FM. You think it’s the high frequencies that have you feeling transplanted? Could be, six-week-old FM is quickly becoming known for its jazz and funk musical talent. But more likely it’s the pastel, lounge decor; the high, loftish ceilings; the spotlights; and the stage. FM brings to Austin Street precisely what it brings to the dial — the newest, hippest waves.

For example, in his 25 years of cooking experience at such staid Manhattan restaurants as Chumley’s in the Village and Keens Chop House in Murray Hill, Chef Peter Lariviere has developed a unique style of cooking which he refers to as the new New York cuisine. From these bistros of yesteryear, where the likes of Diamond Jim Brady and Lilly Lantree were often seen, Peter has learned what New Yorkers like and, more importantly, what they expect when they dine out: choice, succulent food items served with a modicum of creativity and a dollop of tradition.

One modicum of creativity at FM is sous chef Craig Winkler. From the miscellany of appetizers to the melange of desserts, Winkler takes a bite out of the big Apple with his saucy French fetes. But let’s take it from the top.

The appetizers. Maybe it was the oyster sauce, but my risotto with wild mushrooms appetizer had me smitten at first bite. Flavored with pecorino cheese, the perfectly cooked arborio rice brought a world of new sensations to my palate, and my heart fluttered for the portobello mushrooms.

For an entree, I opted for the marinated chicken breast, served tender over seasoned summer vegetables and dripping with semi-sweet sauce. Similarly plucky, my guest also ordered the chicken breast, but hers came flame-broiled with a choice of three sauces. Our waiter permitted us to sample from all three, and while my heart went out (on fire!) to the spiciest chipotle sauce, my gentle guest could hardly tackle the honey-mustard. But she had nothing but compliments for the tender white meat and its seasoned rice accouterment.

And we even made room for dessert! Good Queens Girl that I am, I opted for the most American dish on the menu - FM’s "famous" Oreo Cookie Crusted Cheesecake. Drizzled with caramel, the cake was as sweet as cheesecake can be, and positively dangerous in its chocolate armor. My guest, the more cultured of us two, opted for the chocolate soufflé cake, which was as flirtatious and debonair as the country it salutes.

After our final cappuccinos, we extended our compliments to the chef and promised to be back between Wednesday and Friday to check out FM’s funky urban grooves and after-hours bar menu. You should join us, too. FM is sure to become Forest Hill’s next best place to see and be seen