Douglaston Manor: 68-20 Commonwealth Blvd. and Marathon Pkwy., Douglaston; 718-224-8787

Cuisine: Continental

Hours: 4:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 4:30 to 12 midnight, Friday to Saturday, 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday, Closed Monday.

Handicapped Accessible: Yes

Credit Cards: All major

Built atop the highest peak in Queens, Douglaston Manor proudly sits on top of the borough. And while the image that this brings to mind is more stepladder than steeple, what the structure lacks in vertical prominence it more than makes up for in culinary excellence.

Known primarily for catering wedding, bar mitzvah, anniversary, birthday, and business receptions, Douglaston Manor also has a first-class restaurant. Although, with up to five parties in progress on any given night, the temptation to wander from one celebratory rite of passage to the next may cause some hosts to wonder about your identity.

But with a dining room and serving staff of this caliber, there is no need to assume the identity of others and crash the party. It is elegantly decorated, and has a view of the Douglaston’s 18-hole golf course as well as the city skyline. In the warmer weather you can even stroll around the grounds.

We started with the Hot Seafood Antipasto ($10.95), which was a heaping portion of stuffed shrimp, fried calamari, baked clams, fried sole and zucchini in a wonderfully rich sauce. Also recommended are the Mussels Fra Diavolo ($7.95) and the Clams on the half shell ($6.95).

For our main course, we selected the Fussili all Matriciana ($11.95), spiral pasta served with Julienne prosciutto and onions in a light tomato sauce. While first feeling overwhelmed by the massive Prime Rib ($18.95), one of the house specialties, it proved without a doubt to be one of the best in the borough.

The menu also offers a wide selection of meat, poultry, veal, seafood, and pasta dishes. Try the Manor Veal Rollatini ($14.95), stuffed with spinach and mozzarella cheese, herbs and spices, and served in a delicious mushroom sauce. Another house specialty is the Chicken Ambrosia ($13.95), sautéed with white wine, lemon, and artichoke hearts.

If you are a lobster lover, don’t miss the Lobster buffet ($31.95) every Thursday. In addition to your favorite shellfish, you will also be allowed to devour unlimited portions of clams, calamari, mussels, garlic bread, baked ziti, chicken, pork, and ham.

For dessert, the manor serves up terrific espresso and cappuccino, not to mention a great selection of cheesecakes and pastry.

On Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, the manor is also a great place for dancing. This might be just the thing to convince you that this is the spot you would like to hold your next affair.

Just ascend the biggest foothill in the borough. You can leave your climbing gear at home, but don’t forget your appetite.