CALLA LARGA: 247-63 Jericho Tpke., Bellerose; 343-2185

CUISINE: Northern Italian

HANDICAP ACCESS: Yes

CREDIT: All major cards accepted

HOURS: Tuesday-Friday, lunch noon to 3 p.m., dinner, 5-10 p.m.; Saturday, 5-11 p.m.; Sunday, 2-9 p.m.

Calla Larga owners, Denis and Daria, have redefined Northern Italian cuisine. They’ve been tantalizing diners for years with inventive combinations of spices, sauces, and garnish on hand-made pasta, fresh seafood, chicken, veal and beef combinations.

While it is unquestionably a fine restaurant, there is a soft, intimate edge to the atmosphere and service, typified by a fresh red rose on each table and classic European savior faire of Raymond, our server.

Compliements of the house, a basket of specialty rolls, Italian salami with fresh whole parmesean cheese, were served immediately.

Raymond suggesed the house speciality appetizer, Calamari Dalmata, ($9.50) served on a bed of radicchio, grilled with fresh garlic slices and olive oil. It ranked high above conventional calamari selections.

A regular patron was overheard saying, "It’s different than any calamari I’ve ever had."

My dinner companion and I shared the Lobster Ravioli sauteed in white wine and lemon sauce topped with fresh shrimps, and a sprinkle of parmesean cheese ($18.95 dinner portion; $9.50 appetizer portion). It had a smooth, warm consistency that melted in our mouths. We ravished every morsel.

Vitello Calla Larga ($17.95) a signature dish of veal expertly prepared with chestnuts, Shitake mushrooms, baby fava beans with proscuitto, and a sliced red potato, all garnished with fresh drippings, brought a sigh of contentment.

The bitter thought that dinner had ended was quickly sweetened when Raymond brought an assortment of Daria’s homemade desserts, ricotta cheese cake, black and white mousse, and banana chocolate cake mousse.

Calla Larga is a must return experience. Buon Appetito!