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Elegance
On The Green

Caffé on the Green: 201-10 Cross Island Pkwy., Bayside. 423-7272.

Cuisine: Italian

Hours: Closed Mondays. Tues.-Thurs., noon-10 p.m.
           Friday, noon-11 p.m.; Saturday, 5-11:30 p.m.;
           Sunday, 3-10 p.m.

Parking: Private lot with valet

Credit: All major cards accepted

Haven’t you worked hard today? Isn’t your partner in life special? Aren’t you special?

Then treat yourself to a lunch or dinner worth sitting back, enjoying and delaying life right until you finish the last drop of cappuccino. It’s easy to find . . . just stop in to Caffé on the Green.

And the Caffé is easy to find on the service road of the Cross Island Expressway (you’ve seen the signs for it or its beautiful trimming of white lights about the windows and trees). As for the "green" . . . that’s the Clearview Golf Course, if you track sights by landmarks, and it makes for a beautiful setting outside the oversized windows of this simply beautiful home turned fine dining restaurant.

The dapper Joseph Franco has been the head of this home – once owned by Rudolf Valentino – for the past eight and a half years and the restaurant has evolved into a warmly lit haven of murals, tapestries, stained glass and light piano music from the lounge/bar (live entertainment five nights a week and cigar, cigarettes and pipes allowed in the bar area).

Careful not to fill up on the warm bread and Melanzane (eggplant) spread, my companion and I ordered Vongole al Forno (Baked Clams, $8.75), which had all of the Italian flavors you would expect perfectly balanced so that none would be over-powering.

I tried the Pasticcio alle Paradiso (three pastas baked with fresh spinach, ricotta and mozzarella in a light tomato and basil sauce, $15). The menu warns that it is supposed to take 20 minutes to prepare, but if it does, I didn’t notice. A delightful blending of cheeses and pastas, the Paradiso was light, flavorful, and I am looking forward to the half that I simply could not finish but was sure to take with me.

My companion had the Cacciucco Fiorentino (baby lobster tails, shrimp, scallops, calamari, clams & mussels in a light spicy tomato sauce, served on a bed of linguine $22.50). When I asked how it was, she commented, "you can quote me, ‘give me a few minutes, I’m enjoying it’" and made me wait. Her final conclusion was, "a little on the spicy side, perfect portion, lots of seafood with not too much linguine, moist, tender and fresh."

There was no room for dessert, which ranged from Haagen Dazs ice cream to "Holy Cannoli" (all for $6), but never leave without finishing your meal with a relaxing cappuccino. It’s all part of dining the way you deserve to dine.

— Tamara Hartman

To contact us call (718) 357-7400, fax (718) 357-9417 or write to
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