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Consistent
Good Taste

BUON GUSTO: 1446 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn: 516-484-9550

CUISINE: Italian

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays; 1 p.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday; 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.

HANDICAPPED ACCESSIBLE: Yes

CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards

Since its transformation from firehouse to restaurant, the brick fixture on Old Northern Boulevard in Roslyn has seen businesses come and go.

But for the past eight years, Buongusto has prevailed.

Italian for "good taste," Buongusto indeed lives up to its name with a consistency that keeps customers loyal.

The lunch menu offers a variety of appetizers, such as Zucchini Fritti (Julienne fried zucchini for $4.95) Involtini di Melanzane (rolled eggplant with ricotta, mozzarella and parmesan cheese for $5.95) and the Antipasto Buongusto (a hot antipasto for $8.95).

If a salad is what you’re in the mood for, there are nine to choose from including the traditional Caesar salad ($4.95) to the Arugola, Endive & Grilled Shrimps served with Buongusto’s Italian vinaigrette ($9.50).

Though the salad selection diminishes slightly on the dinner menu, it more than makes up for it with additional pasta, chicken, veal and fish entrées.

Purchased daily from the Fulton Fish Market, Buongusto offers dishes such as Dentice Mediterraneo (fresh fillet of red snapper sautéed in white wine, artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes and onions for $16.95) Calamari Fritti (fresh fried calamari for $12.95) and Gamberoni alla Romana (breaded shrimp prepared with marsala wine, mushrooms, brown sauce and fresh mozzarella for $16.95).

Chicken and veal dishes include Pollo Scarpariello (pieces of chicken with sausage, sweet peppers, garlic and white wine for $12.95), Chicken alla Verde (chicken breast with fresh broccoli and melted mozzarella sautéed in fine brown sauce), Scaloppine alla Caprese (sautéed veal with fresh mozzarella, basil and tomato for $14.95) and Costoletta di Vitello alla Griglia (grilled veal chop with sautéed mushrooms for $21.95).

The pasta selection is not only reasonably priced, ranging from $9.95 to $13.95, but is also extensive with something for everyone.

Dishes that should not be missed are the Capellini del Pescatore (Angel hair pasta with a generous assortment of fresh seafood in red sauce for $13.95), Penne Ortolana (Penne pasta served with chicken, broccoli and sun-dried tomatoes sautéed with garlic and oil for $12.95) and Mezzelune all’Anna (Half-moon shaped pasta filled with ricotta cheese in tomato sauce prepared with fresh mozzarella for $10.95).

Buongusto seats about 200 guests and also does catering, offering seven different packages from $22.00 to $41.00 per person plus tax and 17 percent gratuity. Choices range from salad to an appetizer to hors d’oeuvres plus pasta, and a main course of chicken, veal or fish, plus unlimited wine, beer and soda, not to mention coffee and dessert.

So for great food in a friendly, casual yet elegant environment, visit Francesco Amorelli and his partners (and chefs) Rosario and Joseph. But be sure to make reservations, especially during the weekend. Good taste like this is hard to keep secret.

- Jennifer Maurici

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