Aunt Bella’s: 4619 Marathon Pkwy., Little Neck, 225-4700

Hours: Sunday through Monday, Noon to 11 p.m.

Cuisine: Italian

Handicapped Accessible: No

Credit Cards: All major

The intimate Aunt Bella’s restaurant has an uncanny resemblance to my mother’s dining room. Beautiful pink roses color otherwise black wallpaper. Curtains balloon over quaint, box-like windows. And you can see inside to the kitchen.

But there are two kitchens at Aunt Bella’s; one you can see, one you cannot see. Our friendly, pleasant waitress Sharon was working behind the counter of the one you can see, creating the illusion of it being “her” kitchen. We were enamored.

Inside the other, real kitchen, Bella’s chef was hard at work preparing us the homemade meals which are his specialty. We started with two appetizers: a dozen baked clams ($9) and three jumbo mozzarella sticks, with marinara sauce ($4.75). Both were excellent. The clams were served in a great crumb-and-oil breading, and the mozzarella sticks were huge and evenly cooked.

For entrees, I ordered the eggplant parmigiana ($7.75), served with a side of spaghetti, while my guest tried a hearty baked ziti (also $7.75). My guest raved about her dish, served as it was in a blanket of mouthwatering mozzarella, and I loved the eggplant, also cheesy and tender to the tongue. The chunky, tart sauce was also great.

Famished by the cold, wet weather, we still had room for dessert. My guest tried the Black Parisienne- chocolate ice cream with a raspberry sorbet center, dipped in chocolate (only $2.50). It was as decadent and feminine as the city it’s named for (not to mention in line with Bella’s color scheme.) I tried a hearty slice of fudge cheesecake, creamy and sweet ($2.50).

But what we liked most about the restaurant was its atmosphere. The homey set-up, dim lighting and kind service afforded us an afternoon of laughter and enjoyment. Owner Richie Coy said the carpeted, one-room bungalow attracts families from as far as Oceanside. And, as if to emphasize what a popular place Aunt Bella’s is, I ran into my first-grade teacher! She and her guest also appeared to be having a lovely time.

So if you’re looking for a relaxing, home-style Italian lunch or dinner with a close friend, but don’t feel like cooking, Aunt Bella’s is a must-try. Their take-out and delivery service is available from noon until 11 p.m., seven days a week. Also inquire about home-catering.