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KNISH NOSH STARTS ANEW AT AGE 55
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Haig Schneiderman, Chef Anna and Manager Ernest French outside Knish Nosh.
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By MICHAEL PERLMAN
Knish Nosh has been a trademark of Forest Hills since 1952. Located at 100-30 Queens Blvd. at 67th Road, New York residents, out-of-towners, and native celebrities, have sampled its timeless century-old recipe in a cozy establishment with personable staff, and an aroma that not only goes out the door, but a taste that stimulates the mind.
Now in its 55th year, Knish Nosh redefines itself as it expands to accommodate a new wave of foods that will be a perfect complement to the knish, or a novelty alone. Knish Nosh is simply defined as “a tradition that strongly lives on.”
On an average day, Knish Nosh sells 4,000 knishes, and takes pride in promoting a healthy diet with its old school home-cooked meals.
“We serve a feel-good kind of food that’s inexpensive, all natural with no preservatives, and kosher. The oil we use for our hand-rolled knishes contains no trans-fats or cholesterol. It’s Jewish soul food for all,” said owner Haig Schneiderman of Manhattan’s Upper West Side.
Knish is a Yiddish word that descended from the Polish word, knysz, and is dough that is round or square, stuffed with a filling, and baked or fried. In addition to knishes, Hebrew National franks in a blanket are popular, as well as cocktail franks and cocktail knishes, particularly before holidays. Knish Nosh also caters parties.
In 1952, a knish was 20 cents, and the first four varieties were potato, kasha, cherry cheese, and liver. Flash forward to 2006, and check out 12 varieties, which have aged gracefully when it comes to inflation; potato, kasha, spinach, broccoli, sweet potato, mushroom, carrot-mushroom, cabbage, meat, corned beef, turkey, and a pastrami knish wrap. A famous pastry is raisin rugelach with raspberry jam and cinnamon. Products are also sold wholesale throughout the metropolitan area, shipped overnight countrywide, and available in delicatessens and supermarkets.
The window’s neon sign boasts “Knish Nosh since 1952.” Adjacent are mounted signs which creatively advertise additional specialties: The Frank Nosher is one frank in a blanket with one knish wrap; The Classic Sweetie is one frank in a blanket with one sweet potato knish; The Knish Nosher is one knish wrap with one knish; The Classic is one frank in a blanket with one knish; and The Double Dogger is two franks in a blanket with one knish. All of the above specialties come with any can of soda.
Schneiderman grew up in Riverdale, and has been frequenting Knish Nosh for over 30 years. When he was 15, he asked, “Why is there only one Knish Nosh establishment?” He envisioned taking it over someday, and wondered what it would be like.
Sam Heller, a Bronx native and long time Forest Hills resident, founded Knish Nosh in 1952. It was originally located on the southeast corner of the boulevard with three tables and a wall-to-wall service counter, but moved across the street to its southwest location in 2001. The business remained in the same hands, until Sam made plans for retirement to Florida in 2003.
Schneiderman recalled Sam as “a nice guy who was very passionate about his knishes and his business.” On Feb. 7, 2003, Schneiderman’s dream became a reality. “I occasionally hear ‘my mom used to take me here.’ People everywhere get connected because of eating knishes.” The community thanked him, especially since many classic neighborhood establishments have recently closed their doors.
“Many people say that Forest Hills starts and ends with Knish Nosh. At the time, I said ‘Knish Nosh is going strong. I plan on bringing it to the next level, so it will be better than ever.’ I embraced the opportunity.”
Reminiscing his childhood, Haig explained, “My family’s routine was to travel to Knish Nosh for a knish, frank, and a Dr. Brown’s soda, and then have dessert at Lemon Ice King in Corona. Our third stop would be a match at the Forest Hills Tennis Stadium,” which is where the U.S. Open was held until it moved to Flushing Meadows Park in 1977. He then added, “I have to admit, the refreshments weren’t the best at the stadium.”
In spring 2006, Haig purchased the neighboring Lazar’s butcher shop, to transform Knish Nosh into one large restaurant with a cozy “mom & pop” ambiance. “The new space will continue to feature retro touches, such as an ornate tin ceiling with moldings and antique fans. I want my customers to feel closer to its roots,” said Haig.
Chef Anna is the mastermind who initiates her ethnic flair to Knish Nosh, and already begun to introduce a variety of foods. She shared her expertise for two years in Great Neck, a year in Long Beach, and nine years in Lazar’s behind the scenes. She now comes out of the kitchen with a smile, and remains on her feet to appease a customer’s taste buds. “I work 15 hours a day, 7 days a week at Knish Nosh,” said Anna. “I put all of my satisfaction into my cooking. I feel good when people are happy, so it is my obligation to prepare everything fresh and the best,” she added.
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